It might have been hot, but it was going to take much more than the familiar
Tehran cocktail of unrelenting heat and choking smog to deter the 20 or so
young Iranian women gathered outside the record shop. Beethoven’s isn’t
exactly the sort of name you would expect of a hip music store. But this is
Tehran, and as with most things involving young Iranians today, even a
seemingly boring name hides something far more subversive.
All the young women are in manteaus, the figure-hugging three-quarter length
jacket worn as a substitute for the chador. But underneath they sport tight
white jeans, Versace print head-scarves, designer sunglasses and delicate
sandals, the thin straps of which wrap around perfectly painted toenails.
A brand new silver Mercedes glides up and an androgynous young man clad in
trendy black gets out. Behind him walks a confident man in his late thirties
who shepherds the younger man past the adoring female fans. A ripple of
excitement goes through the crowd as the girls recognise the young man while
some hold up their mobile phones to take pictures and video clips of him in
the crush.
Were it not for the head-scarves and manteaus, it could easily have been
Robbie Williams outside HMV. Welcome to the vibrant and almost completely
unnoticed world of Iranian pop music.
Tehran is one of the most talked about cities in the world; many people
believe it could well be the next target for the Bush administration’s third
invasion in its so-called “war on terror”. The majority of the limited
reports and images to have emerged from the Iranian capital in the past year
have been about alleged nuclear weapons programmes, senior members of Iran’s
theocratic state and, of course, President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad.
Very little has been said that accurately describes this nation of 70m, which
is one of the most ethnically and religiously diverse countries in the
Middle East. Despite a recorded history of more than 5,000 years, making it
one of the oldest civilisations on earth, Iran remains shackled to a small
number of clichés; turbaned mullahs, women wearing the black chador and
antiwestern rhetoric.
As a news correspondent this Iran was familiar to me. I’d seen many angry
rallies postFriday prayers and done interviews with politicians and military
figures. But I longed to show the unseen and hugely varied life of ordinary
people in Tehran; one of the least understood cities on earth.
I had a personal reason for doing this, too. There have been many times over
the past year or so where the accelerating crisis over Iran has reminded me
of the relentless build-up to the invasion of Iraq in 2002. The similarities
are chilling; accusations of the development of WMDs, allegations of
sponsoring terrorism, and military reinforcements being sent to the region
while leading Bush administration officials consistently speak of the need
for the world to be prepared for preemptive action.
I reported from inside Iraq for several years before the invasion and I regret
enormously that while I did endless stories about Saddam, his regime,
weapons inspectors and suchlike I spoke very little about ordinary Iraqis;
what role religious and sectarian beliefs played in their identity, what
they made of the exiled politicians groomed by Washington as their leaders
in waiting.
I wanted to make sure that mistake was not repeated. It took a year of
wrangling with the authorities to be able to follow the lives of ordinary
Iranians without restrictions or minders, but I was given an extraordinary
opportunity.
Iran has one of the youngest populations in the world; around 70% of its
citizens are under the age of 30. That means 70% of Iranians have no memory
of life under the Shah, and have grown up under the rules of the Islamic
republic. For them there is the profound sense that nearly 30 years after
Ayatollah Khomeini led the world’s first Islamic revolution the rebellion
has to renew itself to become relevant to their generation.
So in Iran at the moment there is a unique situation where an Islamic
theocracy is being challenged, scrutinised and publicly questioned in a way
that very few other regimes in the Middle East are. This is not just
happening in Iran’s parliament and the active media; it is being done in the
streets, in people’s homes, and even by what citizens wear and how they
express themselves.
The pop star I met at Beet-hoven’s record shop was called Benyamin and the
analogy with Robbie Williams is pretty accurate. Benyamin is currently the
hot young thing in Iranian pop music. Mohsen Rajabpour, his manager, is
Tehran’s Simon Cowell — and is a match for his English counterpart in every
way. The last person I expected to hang out with in Tehran was a pop
svengali cum entrepreneur.
“The difference between me and this Englishman [Cowell] is that he is not
restricted in making his pop stars,” said Rajabpour as we glided around in
his Mercedes. “Mine must be created within the restrictions of Iran.”
But this hasn’t stopped him producing a number of highly successful pop acts.
The restrictions are ones you’d expect. “I can’t do songs that are about hot
sexy topics,” but despite this his acts find ways of pushing back the
boundaries with each record.
The key to Rajabpour’s success and why he is an unlikely modern revolutionary
is that he succeeds as a pop entrepreneur by having a very good grasp of the
laws and jurisprudence of the Islamic republic. He’s now working on what he
thinks is the perfect rock band for Iran.
“It has the usual things: drums, bass, guitars . . . but with girls!” They’re
going to be Iran’s answer to the Spice Girls, but with a very different kind
of girl power. The law says that the lead vocalist in a publicly approved
rock band cannot be a girl. His trick is that all members of the band are
vocalists, so it can’t be said that the lead vocalist is a girl. It is in
thousands of such small tests of change that Iranians from all walks of life
are transforming their country.
Bozorgmehr Sharafeddin is the editor of Chelcheragh, one of Tehran’s best
known weekly youth magazines. Still in his twenties, he leads a constantly
changing group of 40 or so young Iranian men and women journalists. The
topics range from politics and culture to music and comedy. In the midst of
Benyamin’s appearance at Beethoven’s, the editor quizzed me about my
documentary and I explained that I wanted to follow the lives of ordinary
Iranians.
“So,” he said with a wicked grin, “you are on mission impossible.” He paused
briefly then said: “Why don’t you write an article for our magazine as a
guest reporter? It’s the best way for you to get as deep into Iranian
society as possible.”
I duly attended the magazine’s editorial meeting where I was quizzed by staff
and given a stark insight into the constant battle they face with the
censors and the threat of the magazine being suspended or shut down.
Iranian journalists call them “red lines”, the opaque and constantly shifting
guidelines by which the state clamps down on publications. My article was
going to be edited by Sharafeddin and any sensitive or risky comments would
be cut.
I said I wanted to write a feature profiling three prominent young women:
Nazila Noe-bashari (who runs a transportation company employing many men),
Newsha Tavakolian (a renowned photojournalist I met in Iraq) and Ghazal
Chegini (who works in Iran’s huge nongovernmental organisations network for
a charity caring for children with cancer).
The three of them allowed us into their lives and homes in Tehran and took us
around their city. I discovered a mass of contradictions. Tehran has one of
the highest rates of cosmetic surgery among young people and terrible
poverty. One day I went to a pro-Hezbollah protest in the morning and a
recording studio with Benyamin in the afternoon. Women cannot ride
motorcycles, but in the glitzy shopping malls of the affluent northern
suburbs young men with earrings openly court girls.
I went back to Sharafeddin to go through my article. Various lines and
paragraphs had been crossed out and the changes revealed a lot about the
republic. For example, my comment about women not being allowed to ride
motorcycles in Tehran was changed to “in Tehran there are no women
motorcyclists”.
The reason? My original sentence laid too much emphasis on the government’s
restrictive rule. Another comment, on how Iranian women wear what they want
in their homes but outside wear a headscarf (which, it seemed to me, meant
they were hiding their identities behind a mask), was rejected and changed
to “women felt they were having to take on different identities”.
The way censorship works in Iran is that the rules are deliberately kept
vague. Something that sneaks through one week is then used later as a
catalyst for a crack-down. What is acceptable and what not changes
constantly: the blurry red lines foster a climate of self-censorship more
powerful than any rules.
And yet it is the millions of largely young Iranians who are forcing through a
slow but surely unstoppable transformation in the country. Sometimes at a
terrible cost to imprisoned journalists and human rights activists, the
restrictions are being rolled back. But the quickest way to reverse this
progress is for the West to attack.
Rageh Omaar works for Al Jazeera. Rageh Inside Iran is on BBC4 on Thursday
at 9pm
I have just watched the programme as a friend taped it for me. I thought it excellant. I went to Iran with Explore in November 2004 and had wonderful holiday. The people were very welcoming for which I was grateful as we had just invaded Iraq. Isfahan was beautiful and the visit to Masuleh where we stayed with an Iranian family was wonderful. I don't suppose I will visit again but I really hope Iran and it's people stay safe.
anne whalley, Huddersfield, England
excellent programme.A wonderful insight into a country we are fed so much propagada about.The history ,culture and religion is so intresting.
james edward driscoll, york, united kingdom
Well done to Rageh and the BBC for this fascinating and insightful look at modern day Tehran. Tehran (and Iran generally) is an extremely difficult and contradicting place to live and speaking from someone who visited it fairly recently, I can empathise with most of what Rageh saw and commented upon.
This programme should be sent to 10 Downing Street and the White House to enlighten our leaders in the West about how Iranians feel about their own country and what changes are happening within it. Change must come from within and one day soon, Iran will become a happier and more settled country in which people will be respected and well treated.
Farzeen, London, UK
Democracy has to evolve and Iran can only achieve this by a slow and painful process. An attack by the United States would have catastrophic consequences not only for the Middle East but also for true democracy in Iran and the region. Rageh and his team did wonders to bring this fact to the West. Lets hope American and Western politicians were watching and learning.
massoud, Maidstone, England
At last a simple and indepth look at Iran and its people, please re run this program.THIS NEEDS to be seen by as many people as possible in order to challenge and change the false negative image the west has of this culture and its people!
This nation with its 2500 years of culture and art has a lot to share with the west.
farhad, brighton, uk/e.sussex
Please re-schedule this 'documentary of the year' to BBC2 as soon as possible. Many of my friends cannot receive digital transmissions yet. This programme deserves the widest coverage-well done to Rageh and his team.
Ian Taylor, Oxford,
My iranian boyfriend saw the programme and was speachless by the accuracy
and depth of it! He worked in MAHAK for 8 years (the charity for child with cancer) and had proud tears when seeing old friends talk in the programme. I, on the other hand, missed it. My boyfriend was disappointed I didn't see it, since he believes these are the first video images that finally represent the real life of Iranians today, in the 21st century.
PLEASE play it once more, or give us a chance to download it!
This NEEDS to be seen by as many people as possible in order to challenge and change the false negative image the west has of this culture and its people!
Marie, Canterbury, Kent
Rageh's article shows a true picture of iran and most in the west are ignorant about the realities in iran, i congratulate Rageh for doing an outstanding job, I would also like Rageh to cover another closed and a very badly marketed country, 'pakistan' . Pakistan has different avenues to be explored, from the mullah's in peshawer to the fashion catwalks in lahore, from the media explosion to the miltary government and from the war against terror to the glitzy and glamouros gay and straight parties of karachi.
Amir, Islamabad, Pakistan
Your report was amazing. Unfortunately i only got to watch the end of this programme but i want to truly thank you for the message you've just sent out. We want change in Iran, nearly everyone hates the current government, we simply have NO FREEDOM! Iran has so many beauties, its a shame they all have to be locked away under the cluches of the islamic republic. WE WANT CHANGE, but made by our own hands, we dont want other countries interfiering. My dream is to see a free iran!
(also is there a repeat of this programme or is there any way i could download it as i would love to watch this from the beginning) Thank You!
sheila, birmingham, england
Congratulations Mr Omar for your choice to show the world an insight to Tehran. (There is a clip where you mention that women driving causes women trouble while showing a girl driving without her head scarve which seems an odd clip as women are allowed to drive pre and post revelotion with head scarves of course.) I am very happy you introduced us to the people you met on your journey, all of them reminded me how full of life Iranians are.(especially Majid & Ghazal)
I lived in Iran for over a year as a foreigner, marrying my Iranian sweetheart.I was overwhelmed by the warmth and love I recieved from people from all different walks of life.
I hate all the negative views on Iran made by outsiders who have no idea what a beautiful country Iran is, filled with snow in the north, views around the Caspian sea are breath taking, right down to clear waters and beaches in the south not forgeting monumental pieces of history at Perspepolis. AMAZING PLACE FILLED WITH WONDERFUL, KIND PEOPLE.
Mazel, London, UK
what a eye opener, i had no idea that the state was so complex .
my judgment had always been based on the tv news channels that i have watched, it seems to me that it's maybe, a blend of state control and semi real freedom which is hard to explain in a 60 second live feed from the axis of evil in the live 6 'o clock news show.
is not saudi arabia a much harsher state to live in? which we in the west are friends with? good to see that the state has less control of the people than are economic friends in china.
liam o connor, stoke on trent, england
I enjoyed indeed reading this article, but then I enjoy reading anything that highlights the positive elements of Iran, which is were I was born. I think it is vital that any country, in this case Iran, must have the chance of showing the real people and how they live. However, I think it is important to realise that 60% of the population live under the poverty line, and the country keeps on breaking International Human Right regulations. I think the danger of showing the good sides (or so called freedom people have) is that we might end up thinking; what is the point of criticising the ruling bodies, therefore it is vital to hightlight discriminations,deaht penalties,prostitutions,drug abuse etc etc.
But Mr Rageh, thank you indeed for showing your interest in our country, I do appriciate this hugely!
Elham Binai, Journalist, London, UK
Brilliant, sobering and moving, this kind of informative and real Tv could do more to stop stupid wars and bring about change than a bus load of politicians or a shed load of tanks.
Ps. I loved when you got cornered into saying your prayers!
I would nominate this programme for documentary of the year.
David kidd, Belfast, Ireland
I came upon Rageh's programme tonight by chance and viewed an insight into an Iran far different from that usually displayed by the media (although one or two demonstrations were filmed). I was particularly moved by the story of his cab driver who had overcome a serious drug addiction and now leads a normal happy life with his family. It demonstrated that people are people the world over and I think, now more than ever, that more of these programmes should be shown to the wider audience in the West especially now that the rhetoric against Iran is increasing. Whilst there is a regime of censorship in Iran I believe change is inevitable and will occur within the next generation of Iranians who wish to have the same simple freedoms that we have. Change through force is not the answer and is divisive, I also believe tourism would bring enormous opportunities to many Iranians, I for one would love to experience first hand one of the oldest civilisations on earth.
CSW, fife, UK
I am so glad to see positive images of Iran being portrayed both here and on your BBC4 documentary.
After hearing so much about Iran I decided to do my own research rather than rely on the steady stream of awful one sided reports about this country. After reading the Greenwoods History of Iran book (ironically American) I realised there was much more to the people and history or Iran than they are given credit for in the West. Sadly all we see are snapshots of outraged people at rallys - we don't see the personal and friendly side, we don't get to hear about Irans strategic and historical role in this region. We don't hear about the development and sustenance of many religions before the Arabs took over. Western media needs to start educating people about Irans history so we can understand why it works the way it does and only then can we learn to work with it.
gurdeep singh, leeds, yorkshire
What an amazing, powerful and evocative piece of journalism. Rageh's portrait of my distant homeland is a moving portrayal of a culture I am proud to be a part of, one which has been relayed to me throughout my life by my family. Although I have lived abroad most of my life, my dream is now to return and discover Tehran for myself. This documentary comes at a time when it is both necessary and intuitive to demonstrate to the rest of the world that Iran is NOT an exis of evil, it is NOT a dark place. It is merely a lost city waiting to find its future. Indeed, ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE!
Nickta, London, UK
Just watched the programme. Brilliant, intelligent reporting, superb. Makes you realise that terms like "axis of evil" are crass oversimplifications.
Jon Cashman, Kingston, Surrey
Well done for giving most of us a glimpse of a very different side to Iran that is 'usually' portrayed. I am one of those who grew up with scary images in my head of what Iran was like because all that seemed to be portrayed on the news or written about was negative. I was once involved with a lovely Iranian man who used to tell me stories of what life was really like there for young people, some of them made me sad but I became aware of a very different culture there, that of the younger generation who will one day become the driving force of the country!! I have met many Iranians, from many different backgrounds, with many different outlooks and opinions but all with the same thing in common, a deep love for their country. I think we, in the west are ignorant because we just see an Iran that many news channels want us to see. We have to look beyond what we are 'fed' by our media.
Sharon Green, London, UK
I am an Iranian who has been living in London from the age of 2. We left when the revolution started & have lived here ever since. Over the last 5 years we have travelled to Iran regularly.When I get back my friends always ask me whats its like there. I actually find it very hard to REALLY explain but Rageh Omar's documentary hit it on the head! What a refreshing programme!Reminded me of the one Nick Hancock did on Iran in the World Cup(when they played against the U.S...& won!!) Now when i go to work my friends will realise that i'm not just from the axis of evil but from a beautiful country that has alot to give . The only sad thing is that I work as a physiotherpist here & often see torture victims from Iran. I'm lucky i got away but their scars are a constant reminder of the other side of the red line. Thank you Rageh for your article & documentary. Do more of them from as many countries(that have been ruined by western govenments)as you can. Keep opening the minds of those who cannot see.......
Maryam, London,
I have just watched 'Rageh inside Iran' on BBC Four. It was wonderful and compelling viewing. I was thrilled to find a review in Farsi on an arts site in Iran for a book I released in 2004. An Iranian student at Essex University was kind enough to translate it for me.
How lovely to see the smiles of the beautiful Iranian children on my television screen. And if I may say, what a terrible shame that many of us in the west do not show enough respect for what I believe to be a truly incredible country.
I send a message of peace to the people of Iran.
My thanks to Rageh and his team for making this programme and to all of those who took part in it.
Ray Hollingsworth, Colchester, United Kingdom
I thought the programe on Iran by Rageh was very interesting,and i was rivited,i would like to see a lot more on Iran.Every time I see something on Iran the people seem to be so friendly towards foreigners,yet the Iranian Government seem to portray the Country as anti Western,I was particuly pleased to see more freedom for the women,but there is still a very long way to go.Equality for women in Iran seems many years away.Please let see a lot more of this type of programme about other countries also.
Dave McQueen, Coventry, England
The "other Iran" with its defiant youth and conflicting private/public images is not unbeknownst to foreigners, thanks to the reformist former administration which opened up the space a bit for people to express themselves more freely and for the journalists to report it.
However, at this critical times that orchestrated international pressure fueled with domestic fiery rhetoric is mounting on Iran, it is crucial to bring the "other Iran" more into spot light.
I especially appreciated Mr. Omaar's honest expresion of regret on not doing enough to portray real Iraq. But I wish he had elaborated more on his speculation: "the quickest way to reverse this progress is for the West to attack", as this is of utmost importance, and there are debates inside iran about how a militarization of the space could pretty much send all hard-won reforms down the drain.
Hiedeh, Tehran, Iran
Great reporting. Please continue to do more on Iran. It is a beautiful country with so many unexplored opportunities. How about doing something on Shiraz? One of the most beautiful and romantic cities in Iran. Also, some of the most beautiful women and fun spots. Something different from Tehran. As a foreigner living in this amazing country I am so pleased that someone actually wrote something positive that I can send back to my family to read without scaring them to death!
Sheryl, shiraz, Iran
well every culture and religion has different restriction
you can not walk nude in any usa street why not?
you can not drive more than 65mph in any free way why not ? in germany auto bans has no limit. in holland and scandanavian countries you can watch nudity on tv with no limits you can not do it here in usa why not? adult age in some european countries is 15yrs and 16 in usa 18 why?
so every country go by there own rules it does not mean any thing do not drive any conculosion?RESPECT THE FREE WORLD WALK YOUR TALK.
AN AMERICAN , ADELANTO , CALIFORNIA ,USA
Well written. I think the most poignant section in this article is the writer's dismay for not having done this for Iraq before the invasion. I urge the writer to write that article now. It is still extremely important for the world to remember the Iraq, where multi- religious and multi-ethnic families lived side by side. as they had done for thousands of years, irrespective of borders drawn by colonialists.
External power struggles, as well as internal and external politics are at the core of divisions, not people or religions. Much as it happened in Iraq and in the former Yugoslavia, similar efforts are being made to divide Iran into manufactured factional discord as a means to and end. Local and international powers partaking in divisive rhetoric for their own greed must be confronted and challenged, be they the Iranian government, American government, Arab leadership, any other country, and/or factional organization. (http://boomgen.org)
Mahyad Tousi, New York, New York
I have just returned from a two months visit to Iran, I was amazed at the level of progress that has been made there since my last visit of 25 years ago.
Everyone in Iran is trying to change the conditions for the better. And life will get better if they keep up the pace and do not deter. But it is important to note that if the Government of Iran did not want this change to take place, they would not have allowed it.
For many years now, the Government has gradually been allowing more freedom for women (although a long way to go yet) by turning a blind eye on those not adhering to FULL Islamic Hejab. Some may disagree with me, but this is true.
With the will of our people and the slow acceptance of the social move towards a democratic and free Iran which is in a way embraced by the Iranian government, Iran will find its true self soon and the countries like the USA should not interfere by means of force but by means of political resolution to help Iran to be recognised and respected.
Kamran, London, UK
Good and balanced article.
Glad that the reporter unlike the majorty of
reporters don´t heat up the situation.
James Good, NYC, USA
As an Iranian myself, i thoroughly enjoyed reading this article. It gave a very realistic and true picture of the atmosphere and the ordinary people , specially the youth, in Iran. The majority of the young generation, listen and appreciate different genres of western music such as rock, heavy metal, classical and pop. even though they cannot go to an equivalent HMV store (as western music except classical is mostly banned by government)and buy their desired CD, however throughinternet and other means such as satellite, they are able to listen to them.
Mr. Omaar, your article was very informative and factual.I cannot but agree on your last point that , if the West is to attack Iran, it will cause nothing but damage and destruction both to the progress and the transformation that the young , the erudite and the cultured are bringing about, eventhough in a slow motion manner.
pegah, london, uk
Heartwarming report. I'd only caution that this separate reality, hopeful and joyful as it may be, is also one of psychological torture (with the very real threat of physical harm if anyone crosses the red line). People learn to cope with their condition as ingeniously as they can, but they're being brutalized nevertheless. So, while I take joy and pride in knowing that young Iranians keep kicking and keeping their spirits alive, I can't take comfort in or submit to their life as victims of torture. I still want them to have what I have, which is the option to live as free individuals rather than as a herd of black sheep.
Mahasti, L.A.,
well done Rageh- i do wish more journalists would take their social responsibilties as serioys as you have done. You are a breath of fresh air -Iran needs more support from the world community to counter Bush's Neo con Hysteria - we need your support -- more please......
Dooset Daram, preston,
I really appreciated Rageh Omar's article. The small glimpses we get of "ordinary" people in Iran show a fascinating country. We do not get enough news of this type.
IAM, Edinburgh, UK
Fascinating article. i particularly and completely agree with Rageh's last comment. There have been Western politicians arguing that the first attack would reverse the substantial pro -Western feeling in Iran - where are they?
Jennifer , London/ Geneve, England/ Suisse
... it's a pity that all those healthy changes in such a closed society as Persia (Iran) is nowadays are on risk because two religious political extremists ( Ahmadinejad for shi'a iranian muslims and Bush for evangelic yanks ) will prefer to start a conflict instead of letting God do His job...
My congratulations for the article, Mr. Omaar. I want to see much of this in many countries all over the world.
Tono, Ontinyent (Spain), Spain
Wow. I loved how you summed up your thoughts and feelings about the constant American drumbeat for a preemptive strike on Iran in your last sentence. I couldn't agree with you more. Great job.
hrsa2, Ann Arbor, Michigan
I remember being in Teheran in 1976 and observing many, many young Iranian men strolling around in faded blue jeans, designer sun glasses and wearing sweat shirts that said 'University of South Dakota' ... etc. - all the rage then.
I can't actually recall many girls in similar mode, but these guys would strut around, constantly preening themselves in shop windows etc.
They looked like they really knew they were on the cutting edge of cool ! - I remember thinking that this was more like Rome than the MiddleEast.
And all this was so easily swept away by the Ayotollah ! !
BigAl, Melbourne, Australia