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Friday brunch at Yalumba restaurant is a boozy affair, with an open buffet featuring everything from the finest local lobster to chilled bottles of Taittinger champagne — all you can eat and drink for about £60.
The venue offers a snapshot of one of the many contradictions of living in Dubai: for native Muslims Friday is the holiest day of the week, reserved for family and prayer. For expatriates it is often a day of excess.
For Michelle Palmer these two sides of Dubai proved a toxic mix. The 36-year-old British publishing manager faces six years in jail after she was charged on Thursday with indecency in a public place, consuming alcohol and having an illicit affair with a British businessman, Vince Acors, 34.
The couple were arrested this month for allegedly having sex on a public beach after a day of drinking that began at Yalumba and ended in a white plastic lounge chair on Jumeirah beach.
Their case has captured headlines around the world, sensational for the severity of the potential punishment. For expats in Dubai it has simply highlighted the fine line defining life in the United Arab Emirates. Westerners are welcome as long as they do not flagrantly break the laws of the land, which are rooted in Sharia and laid down by the ruling Maktoum family of Dubai.
Given the rewards — tax-free living, sunny winters and a catapult up the career ladder — it is a sacrifice that Britons are willing to make in increasing numbers. The perks are part of the reason that much of public opinion has fallen firmly on the side of the authorities that arrested Ms Palmer and Mr Acors on June 5.
“Showing some respect to the local culture doesn’t mean you have to suddenly stop having fun. The UAE Government . . . are actually very easygoing with us, when you consider the rules in other countries. And when we do bend the rules, as long as we don’t rub their noses in it, they mostly turn a blind eye,” Claire Sharrock, a British writer, wrote in 7 Days, a popular Dubai daily.
However, as Dubai seeks to lure Westerners, its laws appear to be on a collision course with the values of some of the people it seeks to attract. Kissing in public and cross-dressing are forbidden. There is zero tolerance for possession of drugs or pornography. Homosexuality is banned. So is sex outside marriage.
For years expats have found ways around the strict laws. Unmarried couples who live together present forged marriage certificates to their landlords. Those without an alcohol licence buy drink through friends. Prostitution is an open secret.
However, the era of turning a blind eye is coming to an end. Undercover police now patrol Dubai’s most popular beaches, shopping malls and Friday brunches. Decency police have arrested nearly 200 people in recent weeks on charges ranging from cross-dressing to topless sunbathing.
Yesterday Lester Waters and Glen Whittingham, who arrived from London last week on a construction contract, went for a swim on Jumeirah beach and described the atmosphere as oppressive. “The undercover police patrols are a bit underhanded,” Mr Whittingham, 48, from Birmingham, said. He also thought that some were particularly harsh towards women. Other expats, particularly those who have lived here for a long time, dismiss such sentiments as “newcomer’s naivety”.
Mark Denton, a TV executive from Manchester, moved to Dubai seven years ago
from Singapore. “This isn’t London or Ibiza or Singapore. If you don’t like
the aspects of life that impinge on your civil liberties then you can
leave,” he said.
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It's just a case of forgetting where they were at that particular moment. It's an easy thing to do in Dubai. The fact that you are given an abundance of freedom allows you to think you are anywhere but an Arab state.
Michael, Khabari, Kuwait
I am also a resident of UAE and if you think that the Arabs or other expats need your dollars and pounds you are so sadly mistaken. Au contraire, its their spent during their frequent overseas trips that aids and helps western debt ridden economies.
Reg Thomas, Dubai, UAE
ex pats, you gotta love the simplicity of thought thay have for other peoples/countriies values and laws
barry, chesham, uk
We may think the decency laws are out of date and unfair (I certainly do) but that's beside the point. It's common sense that WHEN IN ROME DO AS THE ROMANS DO. Expats are exactly that Expats, it is not their home. They're going to get punished and there's nothing we can do about it
Tony V, Chicago, USA
This beach photo perfectly illustrates the level of tolerance that expats enjoy in the UAE. How long can this continue when expats disregard local laws and general decency?
Lindsay, Dubai,
Andy, I have to agree with your response to Alan's statement. I would like to add that we ourselves should not accept what have become our 'values' - what values are they anyway? Brits are notorious for their bad behaviour not only in the Emirates but worldwide!
Suzy, Abu Dhabi, UAE
Alan,
If you actually are a resident of the UAE, you display all the traits of the ex-pat community I came to dislike. The Emiratis do not need our money and will certainly never accept Western values. If you don't like that come home. The winter nears.
Andy, Aldershot, UK
I am a resident of UAE and all I have to say is that UAE should not be seeking western dollars and british pounds to pay for maktoums lifestyle and over inflated real estate prices. If you want our money, then accept our values.
alan, london, UAE
Katie,
If the Emaratis are arresting, imprisoning and deporting gay and transpeople, then it has changed a lot since I lived there. Although I must say that being openly gay or transexual would not be the wisest move. It's a case of "when in Rome".
Andrew J Terry, Bury St Edmunds, UK
I was calling fundamentalists, of whatever religious stripe, bigots and snobs not you, Andrew - and I'm very sorry if it came across that way. It saddens me that Dubai has reacted to those who have taken advantage of its past tolerance by arresting, imprisoning and deporting gay and transpeople.
Katie, Newport, Wales, UK
Admittedly though, I originally thought that Saudi Arabia and Kuwait were part of the UAE so I really should have checked that one first - fair point . I stand corrected.
Katie, Newport, Wales, UK
Katie,
The UAE is a country, comprising 7 Emirates, which was formed in 1971 at the instigation of a marvellous leader HRH Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan. The UAE is neither facist or fundamentalist. I was not a high-earning MD and am neither a snob nor a bigot. Your comments about Dubai are incorrect. At least I am stating facts not ridiculous opinions.
Andrew J Terry, Bury St Edmunds, UK
I have one question for the people who sympathize with this couple. If you were on the beach with your young children say, would you find it acceptable for 2 drunken people to be bonking (it cannot be described as "making love") in front of them? Answers please on a postcard.
Andy Terry, Bury St Edmunds, UK
Andrew: Although a UK citizen, I would never even be allowed to enter certain UAE countries simply because I have a Jewish-sounding surname. And, most people in Newport may not be high-earning MDs of big companies but we recognize snobbery and bigotry whether it comes from Christian, Muslim or Jew.
Katie, Newport, Wales, UK
I lived in the Middle East for 6 years & became exasperated by idiots like this who think they can flout the law because they are ex-pats. They can't & I have no sympathy whatsoever for them. They abused the hospitality shown to "Westerners" by the Emiratis & deserve everything they get.
Andy Terry, Bury St Edmunds, UK
Has Katie from Newport ever lived in the UAE. I very much doubt it.
Andrew J Terry, Bury St Edmunds, UK
@Maz
Covering your head does not result in a 6 year prison sentence in Europe. Comparing the two is ignorant and ridiculous.
Ida, London, United Kingdom
Dubai is an oppressive fascist fundamentalist state that persecutes gay and transsexual people arbitrarily arresting them and sending them off for 're-education' (aka concentration camps). Meantime, the rich continue to party and the international community pretends not to know - like 30s Germany.
Katie, Newport, Wales, UK
I have to agree with the authorities, complete disregard for basic morals and not to mention a flagrant lack of respect. Those people who sympathise with this "couple" should now duly remember how we protest and complain against someone covering their head in most European countries!
Maz, Worcestershire, UK
Oh la la, teach Michelle to have some moral values if you want but please don't keep her in jail for six years for that. That's a quite natural need, after all. Michelle has all my sympathy! I am shocked by the readers' reaction, not by what she did.
Marie, New York, USA
We must respects the laws of other countries when we visit until such a time when we can regime change so theat we can impose our own laws there. We are the moral authority of the World as witnessed by the number of countries we are fighting in now, or about to fight-in the name of freedom/democracy
Glynn, Kingston,
Perhaps we could learn a thing or two from this case. British morality is at an all-time low. Perhaps prison time for drunkenness and having sex in public would help cure some of the youth problems and teenage prenancies common in Britain. We can learn something from Muslims after all.
Mark, Shanghai, China
I am a british expat living in Dubai for almost 3 years now.
having sex in a public place is illegal in the UK, IS IT NOT! why should any leniency be offered to these two idiots? Dubai is very accommodating to us westerners, those of us who have normal moral values live very comfortably here
Edana , Dubai , UAE
Great as far as I'm concerned they should both get the fall sentence. It is the media and a liberal attitude that has produced the total disregard for common decency and respect in the UK. Yes lock them up and enforce the law. That will serve to attract those who enjoy good manners and respect.
D Case, Newquay,
No matter what country you choose to visit, you have to respect their laws, if you don't want then you must face the full force of the law. Where these people brought up with no respect or morals. I wonder how her family and friends are feeling now knowing what she gets up too.
Philip, Belfast, Northern Ireland
I have no sympathy with this couple. When in Rome do as the Romans do !
P.S. That goes for the immigrants in Britain as well !
John, Ex Pat, Bangkok, Thailand
Having sex on a family beach is offensive, and considered illegal in a lot of places other than Dubai. That is why this dimwitted pair are getting precious little sympathy. After all it is not as if either of them were newcomers to Dubai. They just didn't think the laws applied to them.
Angela, Epping, Australia