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Ian MacKinnon, Jerusalem Correspondent for The Times, spent today watching the first Palestinian parliamentary election in a decade, an event marked by political divisions, but coloured by a unanimous desire for change
"It was festive atmosphere and friendly. This morning I was in the Balata refugee camp near Nablus and it was quite a sight. There were lots and lots of Hamas supporters, all wearing bright green and white.
"Lots of girls and women were wearing white Hamas caps and bandannas over their hijab and they were intermingled with Fatah supporters, equally dressed up in black and white scarfs.
"Everywhere it was a mixture: streets were awash with Hamas posters and next to them the Fatah symbol of the two crossed rifles, but everyone was calm. A few people were excited and fired their guns in the air but there was no trouble.
"Talking to voters today and over the last few days, most of the people I met were either dyed-in-the-wool Fatah or Hamas supporters. You don't meet many people who have waited to make up their mind.
"In a refugee camp near Nablus, I spoke to an election official today who said that the voters were completely polarised. Just after lunch today he said he thought around 55 per cent of people had voted and he thought the ballot was split right down the middle.
"Fatah supporters tend to refer to the long history of the movement. They say: 'Fatah is the founder of the revolution, who are these other groups coming along now?' They think Islamic Jihad and, most of all, Hamas have arrived late.
"Hamas voters, on the other hand, keep repeating one argument: Fatah is corrupt. They blame the ruling party for pocketing money, for giving jobs to their supporters, for not being able to control law and order. They say Fatah has been in power for so long and look at the state of the place. Among Hamas supporters - and there are plenty who will vote for them who supported Fatah until as recently as last year - there is a real desperation for change.
"Despite the strong division between the two sides, it's striking how often you hear that - the need for change. Even among Fatah supporters, people agree that democracy is a good thing, and pluralism will only help the government.
"Some Fatah supporters are voting for the Fatah candidates on the national list of candidates and for Hamas candidates for district offices. They say Hamas will help keep Fatah in check.
"But many want wholesale change, and they are choosing Hamas. It's interesting, no one knows whether Hamas will become peaceful if they win the election or form part of the government.
"Everyone seems to believe they will change their stripes and become moderate, but nothing has changed in their official literature or manifesto. Voting for Hamas is a leap in the dark. But people want change so much it is a leap they are prepared to take."
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