Mention the word “democracy” in Dubai and watch the reaction. Quizzical looks from locals who enjoy cradle-to-grave healthcare and an enviable system of free education.

Earnest explanations from diplomats about how difficult it has been for society to adapt to the pace of change here. A defence of the status quo by businessmen on tax-free salaries.

But bring up the d-word in the presence of Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Dubai’s ruler and Prime Minister of the United Arab Emirates, and it willl be treated as if a someone has been sick on a palace carpet.

The response, given during a rare question and answer session with Sheikh Mohammed at his palace last week, was handled largely by Mohammed al-Shaibani, his senior adviser.

Democracy, he implied, resulted in cities such as London and New York, where he was so afraid of being mugged that he feared to go out at night. In Dubai, he said, no one need look over their shoulder.

Dubai is proud of its security, as well of its other main achievement of constructing the physical trappings of a modern city from inhospitable desert in less than two generations.

Democracy as recognised in the West does not exist. Instead, an elite cadre of locals — a tiny fraction of the UAE’s citizens — help to vote for an advisory body. The real power is hereditary and determined by relation to the Sheikh. The links between the Sheikh and the state-backed companies that dominate the Emirate are opaque.

There are numerous restrictions. Some employers hold their staff’s passports to ensure loyalty. Newspapers rarely publish articles critical of the ruling elite.

There are few rules to govern any of this; they are not required, it is just understood that this is the way things are done. There is no secret police keeping an eye on you. They are not needed. Local loyalty is intense, informants — and there are lots of them — are rewarded. Dissent is virtually non-existent. Strikes are illegal, and the attitude among nearly everyone here is that if you don’t like it, don’t stay (which is a lot harder if your employer is holding your passport).

Despite all this people are still voting for Dubai, not at polls, but with their feet. For every expatriate who abandons a car at the airport and flees their debt, more are arriving to build a new life.

Why? Because compared to the parlous state of much of the region, its poverty and social and religious intolerances, Dubai is by comparison a bastion of freedom, wealth and stability. Its police force is generally considered incorruptible and respectful, bureaucrats are responsive and competent, and the legal system is fair, if a bit slow. Even the prisons are air-conditioned.

Young talent from around the region that would otherwise have festered or strived to go to America or Europe has come to Dubai. Women play important roles in the workplace.

New arrivals bring skills, ideas and money. They come from India, Bangladesh, the Philippines and Europe seeking their fortunes. They come from Iraq, Pakistan, Lebanon, Egypt and Syria seeking security and somewhere safe to bring up their families. And they come from Saudi Arabia, Iran, Kuwait and even Abu Dhabi to enjoy Dubai’s freedoms and relative liberty.

Dubai is definitely not to everyone’s taste but it is widely considered the best that Arab world has to offer. It is also the most logical place to establish a base if you are a company doing business in the region. As long as that remains true Dubai, despite a tough financial year or two, is not going to recede back into the desert.

As for democracy it is, according to Sheikh Mohammed last week, far more important to give people the freedom to come to Dubai than it is to give them free speech.

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