In just three days on his first visit to a Muslim country, Pope Benedict XVI has transformed himself from a hate figure in Turkey into a model of tolerance and politeness spoken of with warmth and affection.

He returned to Rome yesterday, winning more praise for a parting shot that he had “left part of his heart in Istanbul”.

The Turkish media were almost unanimous that a trip that had been viewed with trepidation after the angry reaction to his earlier comments implicitly linking Islam and violence had gone a long way to healing the hurt.

From his support for Turkey’s European Union membership to his speaking in Turkish during prayers in the ancient city of Ephesus, the Pope surprised and impressed.

Most enthusiasm was reserved for his decision to pray alongside Mustafa Cagrici, the Mufti of Istanbul, at the Blue Mosque.

The Mufti characterised the moment when Pope Benedict faced Mecca and clasped his hands in the Muslim manner, as the full apology that the Pope failed to make after his controversial address about Islam at Regensburg University in Germany in September.

“This was a much more important action than any verbal apology,” he said.

“At a time when interreligious tension is escalating, the Pope prayed with the Mufti in the Blue Mosque. And the whole world watched this historic moment,” said Milliyet, in an article headlined “Istanbul peace”.

In his remarks at the airport yesterday, the pontiff even risked a jocular reference to Regensburg. He observed that Regensburg, unlike Istanbul, had failed to win the title of “European Capital of Culture” and called Istanbul “a profoundly European city” , adding that Turkey formed “a bridge between East and West”.

The Vatican was also cautiously pleased, not to say relieved. It is braced, however, for criticism from the Christian Right, which thinks that the Pope went too far.

Vatican sources also cautioned that the Turkish reaction was not necessarily reflected in the Arab world, where Muslim leaders are still calling on the Pope to apologise directly for the Regensburg speech.

Before leaving, Pope Benedict, looking relaxed and smiling, held a Mass for local Catholics at the Cathedral of the Holy Spirit in Istanbul.

In a final message of goodwill to Muslims, he said in his homily that the Vatican wished to “impose nothing on anyone, but merely asks to live in freedom”. In the courtyard he released several white doves before a statue of Pope Benedict XV, who is admired in Turkey for his efforts to prevent the First World War. The Pope noted that Pope John Paul II had spoken at the same site in 1979 and like him had appealed for an end to the 1,000-year schism between the Vatican and the Orthodox Church. “This hope has not yet been realised, but the Pope still longs to see it fulfilled,” he said.

The Pope’s visit has almost become a consolation to Turks, who are reeling from the European Commission’s decision to recommend the partial suspension of EU entry talks with Turkey over its failure to give ground on Cyprus — a decision announced the day after he had unexpectedly voiced his support for Turkish entry.

One commentator said that he had scored a “goal” for Turkey and made it 1-1 in the match, with the EU rescuing a desperate game.

Vox Patris

The week in his words

Friday “The Church wishes to impose nothing on anyone”

Thursday “The divisions among Christians are a scandal”

Wednesday “Let us implore peace and reconciliation, above all for those in the Land called ‘Holy’ ”

Tuesday “We want Turkey to be part of the EU” — in a private conversation with Recep Tayyip Erdogan, the Prime Minister