Tony Halpin, Moscow
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With political tensions between the Kremlin and Downing Street at their worst since the Cold War, Moscow is about the last place football authorities would choose to stage an all-English final for the Champions League.
The nightmare scenario is of as many as 100,000 English fans invading the Russian capital and roaming the streets, many of them ticketless and drunk on cheap vodka. With the final at the Luzhniki Stadium not due to kick off until 10.45pm, local time, fans will have all day to pass the time in Moscow’s bars before heading for the match.
The fear of trouble is multiplied by the prospect of Liverpool and Manchester United facing each other in the final, with rival packs of supporters settling grievances born at Old Trafford and Anfield in the relative anonymity of Moscow.
But Roman Abramovich’s ownership of Chelsea makes the alternative all-English final no less of a potential powder keg. Large numbers of Russian hooligans are likely to be drawn by the prospect of seeing Chelski win the Champions League for the first time in what is already the biggest match Moscow has staged for decades.
Russia has a football hooligan culture that is reminiscent of England in the 1970s and 1980s, with every leading team having its own “firm” of hardened fanatics. Hooligans here model themselves on their English counterparts and idolise them as the elite of football thuggery.
Many of the gangs have English names and sport “casual” clothing in imitation of the groups they have seen in movies such as The Football Factory and Green Street Hooligans.
They post videos of clashes with rival gangs on YouTube and will see the Champions League final as an irresistible opportunity to test their “skills” against hooligans from two of England’s most famous clubs.
Russia’s authorities will respond in the traditional way, with an overwhelming display of force. The feared Omon riot police are not shy about imposing their will, although James Barber, a spokesman for the British Embassy in Moscow, said the unit does not live up to its motto, “we know no mercy and do not ask for any”. He said: “We had the England-Russia game last year, and, on the day, the crowd control was superb. The England fans we spoke to said they were treated very well. The reputation is one thing, but the actuality is completely different.”
Thousands of Omon ringed Luzhniki when 4,500 England fans watched the crucial European Championship qualifying match against Russia last October. The Omon’s intimidating manner and aggressive dogs create an uncomfortable atmosphere at the best of times, but keeping rival sets of English fans apart will test their patience to the limit.
The ageing stands are in need of modernisation and access is occasionally perilous. Police empty the ground section by section after a match to control the crowds, a procedure than can take well over an hour. Capacity at the 78,000-seat stadium has been limited to 69,700 for the final.
A trip to Moscow may also prove financially ruinous for many fans. A cost-of-living survey recently rated Moscow as the world’s most expensive city for the second year running and a chronic shortage of hotel rooms means prices will sky-rocket.
This city of 12 million people has only about 35,000 hotel rooms, most of them catering for expense-account businessmen rather than budget tourists. A study in February found that Moscow’s four and five-star hotels were the most expensive in the world, costing an average of almost £250 a night.
Hotels are already selling out as wealthy Russians in other cities make plans to attend the final and prices for available rooms are rising sharply.
Getting to Moscow will also prove a challenge. Unlike the venues of previous finals, English fans will have to obtain visas to go to Moscow and processing thousands of applications simultaneously is likely to prove a challenge for Russian embassy officials.
Flights, too, will be at a premium. Moscow is less than four hours flying time from London, but the number of direct services is limited and there is no practical alternative method of transport. British Airways’ website was advertising return flights for £890 yesterday, three times the usual rate.
Those hoping to buy tickets from touts will also need deep pockets. Despite Uefa’s efforts to prevent touting, ticket agencies are already claiming to be able to supply tickets with prices climbing above £1,300 each.
If all this sounds off-putting, Moscow also has its attractions. Despite the political chill, Muscovites are generally Anglophile, passionate about football and keen to enjoy themselves. A party atmosphere in the city and a relaxed attitude among fans could make it a memorable final for all the right reasons.
Book your flights now
It may seem to be tempting fate, but those looking to get the cheapest deals on flights to Moscow should book before the final whistle blows, according to Sean Tipton, of the Association of British Travel Agents (Patrick Foster writes).
“If you’re brave, book your flights now,” he said. “As soon as the finalists are confirmed, those seat prices will go through the roof. We saw it last year with Arsenal.
“The whole exercise is not going to be cheap. There’s getting there, the visas, and then Moscow has the most expensive hotels in Europe. It’s going to be tricky to get one that’s a reasonable rate. You will not be able to just rock up and grab a room.”
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