What?
Another Picasso Museum? You’d be forgiven for asking that question when, with much fanfare and the attendance of Spanish royalty, the Museo Picasso in Malaga opened its doors for the first time last Monday and became the fifth museum devoted to the Spanish master’s work.
Three of those already in existence — in Barcelona, Madrid and Münster — offer only partial views of the artist’s output, but the third, in Paris, is home to about as complete a survey of his career as anyone could hope for. What with extensive collections in several of the world’s other great galleries — the Hermitage, in St Petersburg, has two big rooms full of his paintings — most people will be wondering if there are enough of his works left in the world to stock another gallery.
It turns out there are plenty, thanks to the private collections of two family members — Christine and Bernard Ruiz-Picasso, the artist’s daughter-in-law and grandson. Together, they have donated 155 works in various media to create the backbone of the new museum, and in doing so have honoured Picasso’s wish that his work should have some kind of permanent showcase in the city of his birth. A further 49 items are on loan from other relatives for 10 years.
Admittedly, this is not the finest Picasso collection you’ll ever see. The museum’s director has admitted as much, and several of the galleries are padded out with the kind of loose, splodgy canvases that he was churning out at the end of his life. But there are, nonetheless, two very good reasons why fans of his work should beat a path to its door as soon as they can book the flights.
The first is the temporary exhibition (on display until February 27, 2004) that has been assembled to accompany the opening — El Picasso de Los Picasso, housed in four big rooms in the same complex, and full of many wonderful and important paintings from the glory days of his career.
The second is the fact that the permanent collection is such a family affair. These are the works that he kept for himself or gave to his loved ones: some, perhaps, because he couldn’t think of a more profitable home, but others because they were an expression of something far more profound.
Nowhere is this clearer than in the portraits of his first-born, Paulo, produced in the early 1920s, hanging in Room 2. One in particular will stop you dead in your tracks: Portrait of Paulo in a White Cap, painted in 1923. It’s a small thing, close-cropped, subdued in colour, easy on the paint, but in it he gives free range not only to his love and pride, but to the personality of his son. The emotion of painter and subject is clearly and directly expressed in a way that is almost unique in his oeuvre. It’s as if his feelings got the better of him and it slipped out by accident. The effect — both as an image and as a key to understanding his work — is quite stunning.
Visiting the museum: the Picasso name has had a magnetic effect. Curious malagueños, day-tripping Costa tourists and the first international culture vultures have been queuing outside all week, and it’s been taking at least an hour to get in. As a result, you should plan a visit at the beginning or end of the day. The museum’s opening hours are 10am-8pm, Tuesday-Thursday and Sunday; and 10am-9pm, Friday and Saturday (for more details, visit www.museopicassomalaga.org). It’s best if you’re at the door at 9.30am or a couple of hours before closing. Admission costs £5.50 for both the permanent collection and the temporary show.
Beyond Picasso: even without the new museum, Malaga is worth a weekend of anyone’s time. Walled in by tower blocks worthy of the dourest Moscow suburb, it’s not a city that immediately invites inspection. But burrow through the concrete and you’ll discover a dignified and attractive core — and one that, despite the proximity of the Costa del Sol resorts, is wholeheartedly Spanish in character.
Although it clearly has ambitions in that direction, it’s not yet an all-round art-lover’s destination, and there are only two other must-sees: the new centre of contemporary art, CAC Malaga, on Calle Alemania (www.cacmalaga.org; 10am-8pm; free), and the wonderful cathedral.
For some reason, people are very downbeat about the latter, probably because it’s missing a second tower at the west end (the project was dogged by a lack of funds from start to finish). But in almost every other respect, it’s a triumph, especially inside, where it manages to be as grand as an emperor’s palace and as comforting as a cottage fireside. There are all sorts of examples of painstaking craftsmanship contained within it, and some fine paintings in the chapels, notably a vast and beautifully orchestrated canvas of the execution of St Paul.
Fresh fish: after that, most of the pleasure of being here comes from falling into step with the locals, and no visit would be complete without a turn through their covered market, the Mercado Central de Ataranazas. The highlight is the central avenue of fishmongers, most of whom have tiny stalls laid with just four or five types of fish — a spray of sardines, perhaps, or some squid, or a scary-looking bottom-feeder with razor-sharp teeth. It’s all a bit smelly, but wonderfully fresh, and it will have you longing for a frying pan, some hot oil and half a lemon.
At which point, you should step across the road to Los Pueblos (Calle Ataranzas 15), a cheap and cheerful bar-cum-restaurant that’s packed to the gunwales every lunchtime. Go early, to be sure of getting a seat, and tuck into whatever has taken your fancy in the market — a plate of fried hake, for example, costs only £1.70.
Failing that, head for La Mensula (Calle Trinidad Grund 28). It’s one of the best restaurants in town, and the sit-down part of the establishment should be on your list for at least one slap-up supper (book ahead on 00 34-952 221314). In the meantime, take your seat at the long bar and get stuck into the dishes on display in front of you. A plate of porra antequerana is a great way to start: a gazpacho mix of tomato, sizzling garlic, egg and rich salami.
The hammam: the old Moorish fortresses looming over the city, the Alcazaba and the Gibralfaro, are two reminders of Malaga’s long association with North Africa. The former, in particular, is worth a visit, but not before you’ve warmed up at the Arab Baths, a brand-new hammam on Calle Tomas de Cozar (952 212327; open 10am-10pm; booking advised): a delicious, soapy “Turkish” massage takes half an hour and costs £20, but you won’t feel the full effect without a proper bath beforehand.
The paseo: with your batteries recharged, you’re ready to take to the streets with the strolling malagueños. As in any proper Spanish city, getting dressed up to the nines for the evening wander is an essential daily ritual. A great place to start is at the Antigua Casa de Guardia (Almeda Principal 18), where you can sample more than 20 varieties of the local fortified wine, straight from the barrel, at 70p a shot. Try to limit yourself to only one or two glasses, or you may never leave.
Where to stay: first choice has to be the Parador Malaga Gibralfaro (doubles from £82; reservations through Keytel International; 020 7616 0300), perched high on mountains above the city centre. Demand for rooms is unceasing, however, and if you can’t get in, or don’t fancy the steep 15-minute walk down into town, aim for the newly renovated, art deco-ish Hotel Larios (952 222200; doubles from £74), on the pedestrianised Calle Marques de Larios: it’s less than five minutes’ walk from the Museo Picasso. Even closer is the bright and busy AC Malaga Palacio (952 215185; doubles from £91), which has just had an expensive makeover.
The Hotel Astoria (951 014300; doubles from £62) is a good mid-range option: new, well equipped and next door to CAC Malaga.
Getting there: there’s no shortage of airlines or airports with services to Malaga. Avro (0870 458 2847, www.avro.com) has return flights from Gatwick or Manchester from £75pp; GB Airways (0870 850 9850, www.gbairways.com) has return flights from Heathrow or Gatwick, and EasyJet (0870 600 0000, www.easyjet.com) flies from Bristol, East Midlands, Liverpool, Gatwick and Stansted. In Ireland, Aer Lingus (0818 365000, www.aerlingus.ie) flies from Cork and Dublin; from €165.
Sean Newsom travelled as a guest of Avro and Keytel International
