Stay in style under £100: The Hamilton Hotel in the Itaewon district is good value, with basic, clean rooms with satellite TV. An Internet centre is two minutes’ walk, and nearby are lively restaurants and bars — many popular with Americans working with the UN. A subway station is outside the hotel. A room with breakfast costs from £70 (0082-2794 0171, www.hamilton.co.kr).

. . . or splash out: The Grand Hyatt Seoul is sleek and comfortable, set in a big building with mirror-glass windows in a quiet area. Rooms have satellite TV, Internet links and good city views. Suites are also available. Business centre has computers, photocopying, and secretarial and translation services. There is a gym, plus a pool and tennis courts. Rooms from £170 (797 1234, http://seoul.grand.hyatt.com).

Cutting-edge eating: Buon Posto, a trendy Italian restaurant in the Gangnam area, for pasta and meat dishes. Meals about £45 (5444 0812).

. . . and a local classic: Korea House, in a traditional building with a sweeping tiled roof. Musicians play. Meals cost about £25 (2266 9101).

Insider tips: Pick up the free city map at the airport information centre. It shows subways and details of main areas. Many bank machines do not accept Western cards, but Citibank, whose branches are listed on the map, takes them.

Don’t miss: A tour of the demilitarised zone. On trips to Panmunjeom, in Joint Security Area, you are taken up to the border with North Korea. Cost £36 (www.ktbonline.com).

Contacts: British Embassy (3210 5500). The Korea National Tourism Organisation (020-7321 2535).