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What’s so special about the Seychelles? Well, for a start, you have 115 islands, some of the best beaches in the world, a year-round tropical climate, a friendly, laid-back population, convenient overnight flights from the UK and nothing much to worry about apart from sunburn. There is, for instance, no malaria, very little crime, no hassle, you won’t be blown away by cyclones and you can even drink the tap water. The only catch is that the hotels tend to be pricey (but see the BA offer, right).
To make the most of the Seychelles, we would recommend staying on at least two of the islands, partly because they are so diverse in terms of flora, fauna and flavour. The two largest — Mahé and Praslin — are carved from granite and have lush hills and beaches strewn with huge, dark boulders, whereas many of the smaller islands are tiny coral outposts surrounded by shallow reefs, where, unless you are into diving or fishing, there is nothing to do but bask in the sun.
MAHÉ
YOUR FLIGHT from London lands on Mahé, which has a population of 60,000 and is by far the biggest of the islands. It is the transport hub of the Seychelles (a network of flights serves the smaller islands), and is home to one of the world’s sleepiest capitals, Victoria. It is well worth hiring a car to explore Mahé’s 59 square miles, with its cinnamon plantations, waterfalls, botanical gardens, steep hairpin bends and friendly villages where fishermen sell giant jackfish still dripping with seawater. A Mini Moke costs £45 a day at Sunshine Cars (00 248 224671; www.seychelles.net/sunshine).
The best beach on the island is Anse Intendance in the south, and this is where you’ll find Mahé’s first and only real five-star hotel, the Banyan Tree (01494 876677; www.banyantree.com), which opened in February 2002. It has a Thai- Balinese flavour, which matches style and privacy with seamless service. The rooms — some on the beach, others dotted around the surrounding hillsides — are exquisite, each with its own secluded terrace and plunge pool. There are two restaurants, and outstanding spa facilities with an outdoor treatment area among the trees — and, of course, an infinity pool. Two nights for two, including breakfast and private transfers, costs from £1,332.
Most other hotels on Mahé are grouped around Beau Vallon Bay in the north, a wide crescent of sand lined with casuarina and takamaka trees. One of the island’s most attractive hotels is the Sunset Beach (00 248 261111; www.sunset-beach.com), a quiet, newly renovated place with attractive rooms and a thatched bar perched on rocks overlooking its own private cove. It has doubles with breakfast for £201; no children under 10.
PRASLIN
A DRAMATIC 15-minute flight connects Mahé with the second island, Praslin. If anything, Praslin is the prettier of the two, with a population of just 6,500, no industries but fishing and tourism, a languid demeanour, a spectacular forested interior and a winding coast road that can be happily negotiated by bicycle. Air Seychelles (01293 596656; www.airseychelles.co.uk) flies more than 20 times a day between the two islands, with return fares priced about £67. A fast ferry service costs £45, but is suspended during summer months when the sea gets too rough.
The star hotel is Lémuria (00 248 281281; www.lemuriaresort.com), a stylish and sophisticated Relais & Châteaux resort that opened in 1999, annexing three of the island’s best beaches, including the idyllic Anse Georgette, accessible only by golf buggy. The centrepiece of the hotel is a three-tier swimming pool carved into the granite hillside, flanked by a small spa, a couple of very good restaurants, a kids’ club, floodlit tennis courts and an 18-hole golf course. Suites cost from about £200, without meals.
Another hotel that gets our vote is L’Archipel (284700; www.larchipel.com), which overlooks another stunning beach at Anse Volbert. It has doubles with breakfast from £267.
OTHER ISLANDS
ONE OF the most keenly anticipated hotel openings has been Sainte Anne (00 248 292000; www.sainteanneresort.com), on a formerly uninhabited island of the same name, easily reached from Mahé by speedboat. This 87-villa hotel is run by the Mauritius-based Beachcomber company, which has generously awarded its newest property six stars. Are they warranted? Not quite: we were baffled by the decision to build the hotel facing the industrial landscape of nearby Mahé’s docks and — crucially, when the wind’s in the wrong direction — its tuna-processing plant. Half-board for two costs from £424 per night including transfers.
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