North Norfolk is a long way from anywhere and on the way to nowhere else. Bellying out into the North Sea, its coast is a stretch of flinty villages fringed by some of our wildest beaches and capped by the biggest skies this side of Wyoming. You can walk between horizons without meeting a soul, following the crest of the grassy sea-defence walk above a spread of salt marshes and venous creeks.

This was once a hotbed of maritime commerce, with fishing fleets and ports serving the Continent, but the silting-up of its rivers put paid to its prosperity. Today, north Norfolk is a coast in trust, one of the most protected in Britain, cosseted by bodies from the National Trust to Heritage Coast.

Bring your binoculars, but think twice about your cossie — the sea is mostly too shallow for swimming, the currents too fierce and the walk to the beach too far for toddlers. And forget about roaring resorts. The region is a cul-de-sac of natural pleasures, such as cycling, sailing, birding and walking. Even in high summer, you can always find somewhere where yours will be the only footprints in the sand.

Titchwell: the RSPB reserve at Titchwell is our first stop, but the last one for Sammy. This lonely chap with bright orange legs is a testament to the appeal of the Norfolk coast. Sammy is a black-winged stilt, a familiar sight on the Mediterranean, but the only resident of its kind in Britain.

“He flew in 10 years ago, forgetting to stop in Spain on his way north from Africa,” says the warden, Steve Rowland. “He must have liked it so much, he decided never to go back.”

Titchwell has recorded 300 species of birds. And it’s popular with humans, too: it attracts 100,000 visitors a year, more than any other RSPB reserve. Over the next few weeks, its lagoons and reed beds will be busy with breeding avocets, terns, bearded tits and marsh harriers. Admission is free (just pay for parking), and you can rent binoculars for £2 (01485 210779, www.rspb.org.uk).

Brancaster: there are two Brancasters: low-tide and high. When the trickles in the creeks swell to streams, the Staithe comes alive with yellow wellies and jaunty hats, and boats that have lain on their ears in the mud sit upright and await their masters.

There are boats for hire for those who can sail, and RYA courses for those who can’t, both through SailCraft (01485 210236, www.sailcraft.co.uk). This summer, Brancaster will host the 40th European Sharpie Championships (July 20-25).

The prime spot for just sitting and gazing across the fantastic salt marshes, purple in July when the sea lavender blossoms, is the conservatory restaurant at The White Horse (01485 210262, www.whitehorsebrancaster.co.uk), Norfolk’s official pub of the year. It serves seafood with sea views, including mussels from its own beds; main dishes about £12. It also has 15 rooms, from £108pp for two nights, B&B. Too expensive? Just up the road is the most stylish backpacker hostel you’ll ever see. Deepdale Farm (01485 210256, www.deepdalefarm.co.uk) has been in the Borthwick family for four generations. They have converted the old stable block into dorms, plus three double rooms, each with a smart ensuite bathroom and use of a communal kitchen and barbecue. It’s all very environmentally friendly and costs from £10.50pp (£27 per double).

Burnham Market: for a small village of mostly second homes, the terribly chichi Burnham Market has several stylish shops overlooking its pretty green, including Gurneys for smoked fish, the Humble Pie deli, the Brazen Head Bookshop, Satchell’s the wine merchant and Pentney House for Ascot hats.

The bar in the 300-year-old Hoste Arms (01328 738777, www.hostearms.co.uk), where local lad Admiral Nelson came to pick up his dispatches, has become something of a celebrity berth (Amanda Holden, Stephen Fry, Jamie Oliver). Owned by the ex-bouncer and politician Paul Whittome, the Hoste serves up the best local ale (Woodforde’s Wherry from Woodbastwick) and good food; accommodation is from £46pp to £110pp (half-board from £65). Book your weekend table well in advance, or else try The Fishes next door (01328 738588), which does a three-course lunch for £15.50.

Holkham: since the 18th century, Holkham Hall (01328 710227, www.holkham.co.uk) has been the seat of the earls of Leicester. There’s a full afternoon of pleasures to be had here, including a visit to the house, a rather austere palladian mansion full of family riches, including paintings by Rubens, Van Dyck and Gainsborough. There’s also the old walled kitchen garden, a bygones museum and a 3,000-acre park. Admission is £6.50 (Thursday-Monday, May 24-September 29, 1pm-5pm), or £10 for the house and museum. Holkham’s most impressive asset, though, is its beach. It is one of the best in Britain: sandy and vast, three miles long and a 15-minute low-tide walk from the dunes to the sea. It provided the setting for Gwyneth Paltrow’s final scene in Shakespeare in Love.

The Holkham estate also owns a rather chic hotel, The Victoria (01328 711008, www.victoriaatholkham.co.uk), decorated in homage to the Raj with lots of furnishings sourced from India; B&B from £60pp.