The place for sundowners is Bar Buza, on a craggy platform crammed between the citadel and the sea (ask a local to point the way). The place for dinner is Taverna Rustica (part of the Hotel Excelsior; 353353), where posh steaks and seafood are served on a candlelit terrace with views of the ramparts.

The classic climax to any Dubrovnik day is outdoors at Jazz Café Troubadur, where the bald-domed owner, Marko, twangs his double bass in an alleyway beneath the bald dome of the cathedral.

By the sea: for a quick dunk, the town beach, Banje, isn’t bad: just five minutes’ walk east of Ploce Gate, with kayak hire, a diving platform and a decent beach bar. Sand fights a losing battle with stones, but that’s true everywhere along the Dalmatian coast — it’s what makes the sea so famously limpid here.

Much nicer for swimming, however, is Lokrum, the pine-wigged limestone island that reclines like a lilo just offshore. Take a boat from Dubrovnik’s old port (half-hourly; £3.50 return) and within 15 minutes you’ll be rambling through a nature reserve with a secret-garden atmosphere: lots of subtropical undergrowth, a ruined monastery stalked by peacocks and a restaurant that does excellent mussels. It’s easy to find your own rocky bathing cove — but don’ t forget your jelly shoes.

Getting there: Croatia Airlines (020 8563 0022, www.croatiaairlines.hr) flies from Gatwick, Manchester and East Midlands; British Airways (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com) flies from Gatwick and Manchester; Aer Lingus (0818 365000, www.aerlingus.com) flies from Dublin. Croatia for Travellers (020 7226 4460, www.croatiafortravellers.co.uk) has three nights’ B&B at the Stari Grad from £496 in June, including flights and transfers.

Vincent Crump

Lisbon

Why here? Because Lisbon was built for summer — literally. After a devastating earthquake in 1755, its new grid-patterned streets were designed specifically to funnel sea breezes into town. Today, it is a beautiful, easy-to-get-on-with city where men play chess in shaded squares, women beat carpets from balconies and everyone promenades in the fine summer evenings. It has fabulous fish restaurants and fado clubs, of course, but the essence of Lisbon life is outdoors: strolling through a park, along the waterfront or on the essential Lisboeta day out, at the beach.

The best base: the Lapa Palace (0845 077 2222, www.lapapalace.com) is a dream in summer: on a hilltop in a quiet residential neighbourhood, it offers breezes and balconies, peaceful gardens and an inviting swimming pool, with opulent doubles from £297. Or try lazing in the cool cloister of York House (00 351 21-396 2435, www.yorkhouselisboa.com), a former Carmelite convent with great rooms and a plant-filled courtyard, excellent for alfresco dining; from £135.

For instant beach, there’s the boutiquey Farol Design Hotel (482 3490, www.cascais.org), secluded on a rocky headland at Cascais — 40 minutes from town by frequent train — with a saltwater pool, a tiny beach and stupendous sunsets; from £87.

In the city: beyond the carefully symmetrical Baixa district, much of Lisbon is higgledy-piggledy and hillside-hugging. Ride an antique tram up through the cobbled streets of crumbling mansions, hop out on a hilltop and you’ll find it’s perfect for strolling around.

The incline starts at the water’s edge, which means there are sweeping views from almost everywhere. Perhaps the most impressive are from the ramparts of the hulking St George’s Castle, a spectacular lookout over city and estuary.