The omnipresence of the wall wherever you go in the West Bank (round every corner, on every horizon; “a blocking for our dreams”, Wisam called it), combined with the multitude of checkpoints, watchtowers and armed Israeli soldiers make it impossible to forget that you are in a conflict zone.

And yet, the fact that there is more to this war-rent country is immediately apparent and unforgettable. Despite all that it has suffered, the land is still beautiful in parts. The crumbling terraces of farm-land and cascades of bougainvillea - even adorning the walls of Bethlehem’s Deheishe refugee camp - and peaceful ranks of olive and poplar trees are reminiscent of rural Greece or Tuscany.

Wherever you go, people both Palestinian and Israeli (other than soldiers and security staff) greet you warmly. They are keen to talk to you about normal things: home, school, jobs, friends and family. Petty crime is almost non-existent and despite our concerns, we felt safe when travelling within the West Bank. The scariest moments arose from concern at how our guides would be treated at the next check-point.

Under the vaulted ceilings of the candle-lit Citadel Bar-Restaurant in Beit Sahour (the vibrant town just to the east of Bethlehem), drinking sweet, local wine and talking with ATG and bar staff, I almost felt guilty. I had never expected to be enjoying myself so much; yet this is exactly what our hosts hope for.

There can be no avoiding the fact that travel in this part of the world is not easy. Not least because journeys are subject to massive delays or cancellations and the airport staff at Tel Aviv are far from welcoming to those they suspect may wish to spend time with Palestinians (the presence of the aforementioned Palestine and Palestinians guidebook in my baggage earned me a two-hour interrogation, complete with trouser-removal).

That said, I would have no hesitation in recommending the West Bank. I will be returning myself; I only hope they let me back in.

Need to know

Getting there: Iberia flies to Tel Aviv (via Spanish cities) from Heathrow from around £275 return. BA flies to Tel Aviv direct from £278 return.

Tour operator: the Alternative Tourism Group, based in Beit Sahour (www.patg.org, +972 2 2772151, atg@p-ol.com) can arrange accommodation in hotels or with locals, depending on your preference. A week-long tour, with accommodation, (coach) transport around the West Bank, breakfast, dinner and entrance into all sites included, costs a maximum of $450 (about £236), depending on the size of the group. The Olive Picking Programme (which also includes tours and cultural activities) costs $480 (about £250).

Accomodation: the Paradise Hotel, despite its dramatic history, is comfortable, affordable and well-situated - being only a 15 minute walk from Manger Square. Breakfast and dinner are available, rooms are air-conditioned and there is a souvenir shop on the premises. When we visited last year the first and second floors were still out of action.

What to expect: the currency is the New Israeli Shekel (although it is often possible to pay with American dollars.) The current exchange rate is about £1 to NIS 8.34. A large two course dinner in an Palestinian restaurant costs less than a London bus fare, although prices rise in popular tourist sites such as Jerusalem. Alcohol is readily available in Jewish or Christian owned establishments.