ST ERVAN MANOR

Padstow, Cornwall

Planning a Cornish trip this summer? Then run to the phone and book this place now, before everyone else does. The house itself is already famous in these parts — courtesy of Betjeman's Summoned by Bells — but the B&B is new, and its ambition is lofty. What's more, they've just bagged a new recruit in the kitchen: Nathan Outlaw, who used to have a Michelin star over at the Black Pig, in Rock. Together, chef, house and location make for an irresistible combination.

The bed: big, luxurious and set in a lovely room, which was also home to a widescreen TV and DVD player. The bathroom was a tad small, but not enough to dent the overall effect. 9/10.

The breakfast: the cooked part was good, but what I really liked was the selection of fresh, ripe fruit on the buffet — quite an achievement in late March. 10/10.

The decor: more country house than beach house, which is a shame in Cornwall, but well done, and topped off with a selection of good, interesting paintings from Padstow's Blue Wing gallery. 9/10.

The service: a bit too attentive — but then I was the only one in that night, so they probably couldn't help themselves. 8/10.

The location: tucked away down Cornish lanes, just four miles from Padstow, five from Constantine Bay and 16 from the Eden Project — in other words, perfect. 10/10.

Do they do dinner? Boy, do they do dinner. I had pork belly on rhubarb with roast onion puree, roast monkfish on saffron risotto and vanilla-bean cream with orange sorbet: all of it of the highest quality, and backed up by a serious-minded wine list. Since my stay, Nathan has introduced six-course tasting menus, priced at £45 and £65.

Value for money: 9/10.

Does it deserve its nomination? Absolutely.

St Ervan Manor (01841 540255, www.stervanmanor.co.uk); from £60pp, B&B