Low prices first lured us to Turkey, and 20 years later it is still a bargain compared with the rest of the Med. So, if you’ve never been there, let your wallet be your guide. But then hold on to your hat.

Here, magic lurks in places that defy easy definition. Wander through Cappa-docia, where boulders teeter on pinnacles and tidy houses are hollowed out of rocks resembling mushrooms and melons. Watch the moonlight fill Lake Bafa, where, in Greek myth, the Moon herself fell in love. Drift along the Turquoise Coast in a wooden gulet, past pristine coves and ancient Lycian cities. Watch the sun rise over the statues of Hellenistic kings on Nemrut’s mountain, or light up the pale pools of the calcified waterfall at Pamukkale, the fairy-tale “Cotton Castle”. Dine in an old Ottoman pleasure garden on the Bosphorus to the soft sounds of a Turkish lute. The dream list unrolls for a thousand miles, in a country three times larger than Britain.

Turkey not only straddles two continents, it straddles time itself. There’s a buzzing, up-to-date vibe in the cities, especially in Istanbul, which puts on a calendar of cultural events the equal of any in western Europe. But venture into the countryside, especially into central Ana- tolia, and a sense of timelessness prevails. You’ll find it in the everyday lives of farmers and their wives, who gather roots to dye the wool they weave into carpets.

The age of their traditions is impossible to divine: you’d need a scorecard to keep track of all the peoples and cultures that have passed this way. As far as anyone knows, the fertile plain around Konya is the real cradle of civilisation — beneath one vast mound, archeologists found Catalhoyuk, the world’s oldest city, from about 7000BC. You can climb Mount Ararat and look for signs of Noah’s Ark. Visit Harran, Abraham’s town. Or stroll through wall-girt Hattusas, capital of the Hittite empire, or Troy (much better than the movie).

The Greeks and Romans built gorgeous cities here; and for 1,600 years (a record no city can match), Istanbul was a capital of empire. It houses the most exquisite treasures of the Byzantine and Ottoman peoples, from the Hagia Sophia to the delicate tiled pavilions inspired by the sultans’ aesthetic love affair with the tulip. To this day, it is Turkey’s national flower.

Turkey also has a tangible feeling for the future. Vowing to be an asset and not a burden to the EU, the country is undergoing huge changes, making this an exciting, optimistic time to visit. The rampant inflation that saw property prices spiral and a kebab cost millions is now under control — and, as of January 2005, six noughts have been slashed off the currency, making the new Turkish lira about 2.5 to the pound instead of 2.5m.

Turkey’s big resorts, with their charter flights and nightlife, do a roaring trade; while tucked in nearby coves, luxurious hotels wait to spoil you. Traditional guesthouses (pansiyons) are as cheap and cheerful as ever, but there are now boutique hotels with gourmet restaurants, many set in old Ottoman konaks (mansions).

Sea-kayaking, canyoning, nature walks and paragliding are popular, especially on the stunning Lycian coast. And some newer Turkish operators run tours into the beautiful but seldom-visited regions of central Anatolia and the Black Sea.

Yet all this is leaving the best for last, for the Turks themselves are the icing on the cake — it’s hard to imagine people more engaging, kind and hospitable. Their country is full of natural and man-made wonders, but they are wonderful too.

• Unless stated, family package prices are for August, adult package prices for June. Flights, where included, are from London. Ask the operator about regional or Irish flights.