You must visit Bagan because it is stunning, but hurry. The Government has erected a vast, ugly tower in the centre, “all the better to see the temples of Bagan”, says our guide; but it ruins the landscape. Nonetheless the temples are amazing. Climb one of the approved lesser temples for a spectacular view either first or last thing in the day. For an authentic Burmese meal eat at Golden Myanmar near the Ananda Temple. Try the mohinga (rice noodles and fish) or the ohn no khort syea (pronounced “cowsway”) — coconut, chicken and noodles. Even my aunt was impressed.

Exhausted by our overland exploits, we fly back to Rangoon. The trip is almost over for me, but I have a treat in store — a night at the historic, five-star Strand Hotel. This was an indulgence well earned after plenty of basic travel. Contrary to reports I had heard on the trip, The Strand is not government owned; rather it is the property of GHM Hotels, whose director, Adrian Zecha, created the Amanresorts group. The Strand is expensive, from $450 (£258) a night, but also offers a wonderful insight into Burma’s past (for better and worse).

I could not go to Rangoon without visiting the inspiring Shwedagon pagoda. I meet my cousins Patrick and Bryan again on the Sunday morning to do just that and to witness the Burmese at worship.

Travelling with a group of people — even, or especially, relatives — you do not know can be wearing, and the peace and beauty of the pagoda provided an ideal interlude for reflection. Did I feel more Burmese now that I had done this trip? Yes and no. No, because it had highlighted what I already knew — that my heritage was more mixed and confused than simply being Anglo-Burmese. Yes, because by spending time with the “other half” of the family I came to realise that our shared experiences intensified the deep connection we felt for the country once known as the Land of the Golden Pagodas.

A VOICE ON THE WORLD STAGE
By Cath Urquhart

VISITING Burma is controversial because the democratically elected leader, Aung San Suu Kyi, who is still under house arrest, has asked tourists to boycott the country to protest at the regime.

The Burma Campaign UK supports this boycott, as does the charity Tourism Concern. They say that human rights abuses in Burma have been linked to tourism with people being forced to work on roads and tourism projects.

Having visited Burma independently, I disagree with the boycott, because the people I spoke to there were against it. Some of them earn money from tourism, so a boycott directly harms them. Many also told me that a boycott prevents their voices being heard on a world stage. The pro-democracy activist Ma Thanegi, who used to work for Aung San Suu Kyi, says: “Sanctions have increased tensions with the Government and cost jobs. They haven’t accomplished anything positive.”

Whether or not you agree with the boycott, it has had the effect of encouraging potential visitors to think about the political situation in Burma, which in itself is a good thing.

Burma Campaign UK (020-7324 4710, www.burmacampaign.org.uk) and Tourism Concern (020-7133 3330, www.tourismconcern.org.uk) both call for a boycott. Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) publishes a guidebook to Burma.

NEED TO KNOW

Tina Gaudoin travelled with Bales Worldwide (0870 7503239, www.balesworldwide.com), which can tailor-make a 12-day itinerary, including Rangoon, Mandalay, Bagan, Inle Lake and an Irrawaddy cruise, from £1,995. This includes flights, most meals, sightseeing and transfers. It also offers a 14-day Golden Land escorted group tour from £1,625.
British Airways (0870 8509850, www.ba.com) has daily flights from Heathrow to Bangkok, with onward Thai Airways connections to Rangoon from £853.