A big part of me doesn’t want to tell you about Northern Cyprus. Described as paradise lost by the few guides you will find on the region, it has entirely escaped the march of mass tourism.

Three decades ago, when the Greeks attempted to annex the island, Turkish troops landed in response and Cyprus was partitioned. That marked the end of the north’s prospects of a thriving tourist industry. Now, that’s all set to change. Last week, a deal to unite the island was rejected by Greek Cypriots in the south. But following the overwhelming support of Turkish Cypriots for the peace plan, the EU is set to reward them with financial aid and possibly direct flights. All of which means you should go now — because as soon as everyone else finds out how beautiful it is, it will be too late.

Why go? Well, first of all, there are the beaches. Northern Cyprus has more than 150 miles of gorgeous sandy coastline in the shape of the Karpas Peninsula. The sea is crystal clear, the sunshine is uninterrupted and you’re almost guaranteed to have the whole place to yourself.

Then, there’s the culture: the enchanting 13th-century abbey that dominates Bellapais; the imposing castle and perfect horseshoe harbour in Kyrenia; the ruins of Salamis and the fortified city of Famagusta to the east. Nicosia, Europe’s only divided capital, reflects Cyprus’s history of invasions by the Venetians and Ottomans.

And, of course, there’s the food: you can find good French and Italian restaurants, but traditional Turkish cuisine, including meze, still reigns supreme. At Niazi’s (00 90 392-815 2160, www.niazis.com), in Kyrenia, you can gorge yourself on an overwhelming selection of kebabs and meze, cooked on an open fire in the middle of the restaurant, for less than a tenner a head.

Beyond that, a serendipitous approach to cuisine is a good idea. Restaurants will crop up on quiet hillsides or little- travelled back roads. You’ll be the only customer. You might even sit at a table for an age, debating whether the place is open at all. Don’t worry — you’re on Cyprus time, and as long as there are guests, the kitchen will be open.

There is no Ayia Napa in Northern Cyprus, no clubbers’ paradise or neon bar-crawling. But what it lacks in drunken Brits, it makes up for in thriving tavernas, particularly in Kyrenia and Famagusta. Not a bad swap, really.

Here’s a complete guide to the hows and wheres of a trip to Northern Cyprus.

KYRENIA

ON THE north coast, Kyrenia is framed by the Five Finger mountain range and the crusader castle. Its fishing harbour is charming; you’ll have to battle the urge to surrender each day to brandy sours in one of the harbourside bistros.

For the ultimate view of Kyrenia (and arguably its best cocktails), try the rooftop pool and garden of the recently opened Colony hotel (815 1518, www.parkheritage.com) in the centre of town.

In the late afternoon — only mad dogs venture out at midday — wander around the narrow, cobbled alleys behind the harbour for shops selling wooden crafts and art at good prices.

Lawrence Durrell fans should take a 10-minute drive to the sleepy village of Bellapais, star of Bitter Lemons of Cyprus. If you can draw yourself away from the Tree of Idleness, it is worth exploring the remains of the gothic abbey, which hosts regular classical concerts in its illuminated ruins (see www.cyprustoday.net for listings).