Further out into the mountains west of Kyrenia lies Lapta, where waterfalls shoot down to irrigate the olive groves.

Where to stay: the best beaches in the Kyrenia region are the Escape and the Denizkizi, which both offer scuba- diving. Stay at the stylish Denizkizi Hotel (821 8710, www.denizkizi.com; doubles from £30), and enjoy the Sunday tradition of lamb cooked in a well.

Or, to get away from it all, book into the Bellapais Monastery Village (815 9171, www.bellapaismonasteryvillage.com; doubles from £24), four miles from the nearest beach. This peaceful hideaway has 16 rooms and some small villas, set around lush gardens and a pool.

Further up the mountain is the Hilarion Village (822 2772, www.hilarion-cyprus.com), which has eight simply furnished villas (from £25 a night) and a pool.

Where to eat: the Brasserie (815 9481) is set in the for- mer summer residence of Archbishop Makarios, above Kyrenia’s castle. Outside, its biscuit-coloured stone walls are weathered, but inside, the wood-panelled bar and dining rooms are elegant — it’s a place to dress up for. Cyprus is all about views, and you’ll get a great one here if you bag a table on the stone-arched terrace. Great steaks cost about £9.

On Thursdays, the Jasmine Court Hotel (815 1450, www.jasminecourthotel.com) serves up an extravaganza of 300 Turkish dishes to the sound of folk singers in its courtyard above the sea. And the Ani Fish & Kebab Restaurant (824 4355), in Catalkoy, is fantastic and ridiculously cheap.

For breakfast, pop into the Courtyard (815 3343), where the owner, Mo, serves delicious scrambled eggs and home-made lemon curd.

THE KARPAS PENINSULA

MODERN LIFE has passed the Karpas by. The region, also known as the panhandle, is at the eastern end of Cyprus, where the land stretches out towards Turkey. It is almost unpopulated, save for the tiny fishing villages of Bogaz and Kumyali. Birds aren’t quite so scarce — the area is home to more than 300 species, as well as a sanctuary for sea turtles.

The wild beaches here — some sand, some rock — are great for walking, although there’s little shade in the height of summer. In fact, the best time to visit the Karpas is in spring, when the temperatures are lower and the surrounding hills are carpeted in wild flowers. Ancient tombs, ruins and Byzantine churches, such as the Monastery of Apostolos Andreas, are scattered across the region.

Stop off in Bogaz for lunch at Kemalin Yeri (371 2515) and explore the harbour, which was paid for by local fishermen who sell their catches from the boats there.

Where to stay: the small and charming Theresa Hotel (374 4266, www.theresahotel.com; doubles from £15) offers up the catch of the day at the rest-aurant above its private beach in Yeni Erenkoy. It’s a good base for travelling around the peninsula.