Foremost among these is Robin Pope, whose three camps, Tena Tena, Nsefu and Nkwali, are among the best in South Luangwa. Pope is a member of the Safari Guides Company, one of an elite dozen guides chosen from all over Africa, and learnt his trade with the late Norman Carr, the legendary former game warden who reinvented walking safaris for which Zambia is famous.

Another leading Luangwa guide is the veteran Phil Berry, who has worked in the valley for more than 40 years, including a long stint running anti-poaching patrols for the Save the Rhino Trust. Leopards are his speciality, but he is also an authority on Thornicroft’s giraffe and can recognise individual animals from the pattern of their neck markings. He leads safaris for The Bushcamp Company.

At Kaingo and Mwamba bushcamps you will meet Derek Shenton, whose unassuming manner belies the fact that he was born and bred to the bush as the son of a former park ranger and is the third generation of his family to run Shenton Safaris, the smallest independent operators in South Luangwa. Exploring the remote wilderness and following the big cats are his greatest passions.

Tafika Camp is the creation of John Coppinger, of Remote Africa Safaris, who has been guiding in Luangwa since 1983, having worked his way around the world from the diamond mines of Namibia to the oilfields of Iran.

But working with wildlife was always his dream, and in 1995 he and Carol, his wife, set up Remote Africa Safaris. Coppinger is also an experienced pilot and loves nothing better than taking his clients on game-viewing flights in his microlight.

Rod Tether is one of the best of the new generation of guides. He was just 17 when he started guiding in South Luangwa in 1989. A year later he moved to North Luangwa and is now established at Kutandala.

Need to know

Cazenove & Loyd (020-7384 2332, www.caz-loyd.com) can tailor-make safaris with all of these guides:

Norman Carr (00 26 0624 5015, www.normancarrsafaris.com), Robin Pope Safaris (e-mail:rps@super-hub.com, www.robinpopesafaris.net), Derek Shenton (0624 5064, www.kaingo.com).

Phil Berry (0624 5041, www.bushcampcompany.com), John Coppinger (00 264 61 240561, www.remoteafrica.com).

Page 2: Brian Jackman on solitude while on safari

()Going bush: solitude on safari

HIS lean features shaded by a broad-brimmed bush hat, Rod Tether drove off North Luangwa’s only road and parked his Land Rover on the banks of the Mwaleshi River.

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