Steve Keenan
Download 'Too Hot', an exclusive Specials track from iTunes

The northeastern region of Ethiopa, where the Britons went missing, is the hottest place on earth. Average temperatures are 34C and often rise much higher.
"It is a very remote place and looks like the inside of the Earth," says Philip Briggs, author of The Bradt guide to Ethiopa. "You are going in to a desert area that is the hottest place in the world, with lots of hot springs and volcanic activity. It is an expedition.
The kidnapped tourists were in a convoy of four vehicles in Dalol, traveling to the salt mines in the Afar region.They left Mekele on Sunday for a two-day drive to Hamedali, a remote village that is the last staging post before visiting the salt lakes. Then they went on a two-hour drive to Dalol to visit the salt mines and were supposed to return to Hamedali
Times columnist Matthew Parris, a man also drawn to geographical extremities, visited the region last year in search of salt for a BBC Radio 4 documentary.
In Parris's article, Descent into Hell, he vividly described the brutal landscapes. "Hell lies 3,000m (10,000ft) below Mekele, below sea level, in the deserts of the Danakil Depression. A hundred miles over dry mountains and down the other side is an inferno of a place: one of the hottest and most inhospitable on Earth.
"A range of volcanoes, some extinct, some still spitting sulphur dioxide and simmering orange lava, lines this basin; and a range of hills keeps out the Red Sea. And at its lowest point a salt lake shimmers and stinks in the burning sun, its centre a dead, black sea, its margins a great, unbroken rim of solid salt crust."
According to Briggs, Ethiopa is becoming a popular destination in Africa. "It is not in the Top 15 but is high in the second division. It has a lot going for it - historical monuments, un-western tribes and space."
Charlie Hopkinson of Dragoman Overland, which has run tours through Ethiopia for a decade, said: "Travellers visit for the country's history and culture - in the north the amazing Christian sites, in the south the tribal heritage, the birdlife around the great lakes along the Rift Valley and trekking in the Simien Mountains'"
An estimated 5,000 British tourists visited Ethiopa last year - but fewer than one per cent would have visited Afar, said Briggs. "You need multiple 4x4s and it probably not the safest place to visit. There is a lot of banditry and you'd need a degree to understand the complex relationships of the region. A lot of people carry machine guns and it is a hard, hard area."
Salt is an important commodity to the region, with Parris following the camel trains. The small town of Berahile is "really the last outpost of modern Ethiopian administration before things turn seriously primitive," he says. "Berahile is a sort of Clapham Junction of the camel-train community. Encamped on the river bed that evening, we counted (as we drank beer, cooled in a deep puddle covered with hessian sacking, at the soldiers’ bar above it) perhaps 500 camels and their drivers."
Most Britons visiting the country are independent travellers, drawn by the monastaries of the northern highlands. A regular visitor, Philip Marsden, travelled to the north last year on assignment for The Sunday Times. "Gorges half a mile deep slice down through the uplands. In places the plateau survives as small, flat-topped islands — ambas — surrounded on all sides by sheer cliffs," he wrote.
But on a previous visit, Marsden reported on the fledgling ecotourism industry, with Ethiopa attracting birdwatchers from Europe in large numbers. His article, Ethiopa starting as it means to go on, concentrated on two eco-lodges that had just opened in the country.
"Go to Kenya or Tanzania, if you want to follow forest paths furrowed deep by the feet of previous visitors," he said. "But Ethiopia in every respect remains that rare thing, a territory of diverse and little-seen wonders."
Ethiopa is still a country dominated by Soviet-style hotels and Soviet-style service, he said, where a rim of concrete safely separates hotels from anything green or muddy or natural. But Bishangari Lodge, one of the eco-lodges he visited, is like "a spring of clear, bubbling water (which is what its name means in Oromo).
"In terms of its tourism, Ethiopia retains the refreshing impression that it has hardly begun, that the country is an empty canvas yet to have the forms and colours of visitors splashed across it. So it was hardly a surprise when, back in Addis Ababa, I heard about a new eco-lodge at Bilen in the Afar region.
"Bilen is a five-hour drive east from the capital, from the green highlands to the desert fringe, from the densely populated heart of the Amhara empire to the hot lowlands, where the pastoral Afar people have never really taken very seriously the notion of central government.
"About 70 years ago, Wilfred Thesiger stopped for a few days at Bilen’s springs. He was the first to explore this region and would shoot at the birds and beasts and any of the Afar that threatened his caravan. He relished being able to report that the necklaces worn by Afar men for prestige were made up of the severed testicles of their enemies."
Search for a holiday
e.g. Villa in Tuscany
Win a luxury weekend to Newcastle and its neighbour Gateshead, find out more here
Risk, resilience and embracing new technology
Industry sectors news at a glance. Interactive heatmap, video and podcast
Discover the power of collective thinking. Submit a solution and be in with a chance to win a Media Hub Home Entertainment System
The inside track on current trends in the charity, not for profit and social enterprise sectors
Everything the Business Traveller needs to know to make a better trip
Make the most of the summer and enter our fabulous photographic competition, you could win a £5000 holiday
Corsica is an island of beauty and contrast, an ideal holiday destination
Enjoy further reading from Travel to Fashion, Business to Sport, discover more



Free luxury travel brochures from specialist tour operators. Find your perfect holiday
Worldwide holidays from Times Selects. View our e-brochure and check out our superb collection of escorted tours
Advertise your home to the best travel audience on Times Online and VacationRentalPeople.com
Shortcuts to help you find sections and articles
The clever way to lease a new car is with Car leasing made simple™
2009
per month on 36-month
Personal Contract Hire (PCH)
2008
42850
Car Insurance
£24,250 - £30,346
MI5
London
£60,000
The Environment Agency
Bristol
Up to £90K
Boots
Midlands
OTE £85k
Credit Protection Association
Nationwide Opportunities
Completely London
Luxury Condo's in Manhattan with NYC views
The best new homes in Wimbledon?
Nationwide
Fabulous Cruise And Cruise & Stay Offers Including Virgin Atlantic Flights Prices Start From Only £699pp!
Last Minute Cruise And Cruise & Stay Offers. Med From £499pp, Caribbean From £699pp!
5 star quality at a 3 star price.
8 fabulous Canadian cities ...you won’t find cheaper
Contact our advertising team for advertising and sponsorship in Times Online, The Times and The Sunday Times, or place your advertisement.
Times Online Services: Dating | Jobs | Property Search | Used Cars | Holidays | Births, Marriages, Deaths | Subscriptions | E-paper
News International associated websites: Globrix Property Search | Property Finder | Milkround
Copyright 2009 Times Newspapers Ltd.
This service is provided on Times Newspapers' standard Terms and Conditions. Please read our Privacy Policy.To inquire about a licence to reproduce material from Times Online, The Times or The Sunday Times, click here.This website is published by a member of the News International Group. News International Limited, 1 Virginia St, London E98 1XY, is the holding company for the News International group and is registered in England No 81701. VAT number GB 243 8054 69.
Did those kidnapped Britons get released by the way? Don't let these tales put you off visiting Ethiopia - many go and few are kidnapped!
Angela Whitehead, Gueret, France
Dear Steve,
This is one of the rationalised article about Ethiopia, I have read so far. Your grasp about the history and observation on the potential the country has is great. Hope it helps in drawing more tourists which in turn change the lives of the people of Ethiopia in all aspects.
Zenebe, Leeds, UK
i think the writer has no knowledge o ethiopian history.
there is no amhara empire in ethiopia.it is for his second time. i saw an artcle last time,"the somali in ogadenwants afreedom from the amhara dominated nation" dear who rtold you this os there any amhara dominance in ethiopia ,i don't. dear before you write ones read tiwice.
abebe, adis, ethiopia
Steve, I really enjoyed the article. However, I'm frustrated because I want to print out the story about Ethiopia for a friend who doesn't have a computer. We were on a tour in Ethiopia in January of 2007.
Thanks for your help!
<
Betty Jozwick, Ann Arbor, Michigan