When my friend suggested climbing Kilimanjaro I had this romantic notion of heading into Africa and following in the footsteps of some great explorer. We’d be surrounded by wildlife and would effortlessly rise from the Serengeti, towards the snowy peak of Kilimanjaro. In reality it was very different.

We flew into Nairobi and caught a bus to Arusha in Tanzania. I was given sensible advice, to get on the bus in order to get decent seats for the four-hour journey. Given that I’m 6"3' I was glad to have acted on it, as the journey turned out to be five hours. As we progressed from Nairobi and into Masai territory the road was more potholed and interspersed with speed bumps that kept our 30-year-old, Chinese-made bus airborne most of the time.

At the Tanzanian border we were mobbed by Masai women trying to sell us their wares; plastic beads, hand woven into colourful patterns were thrust into our hands. Seven different forms and $30 dollars later, we were in Tanzania, speeding towards Arusha, home to some 270,000 people. Looking from the side of the road, it was hard to believe it.

After a one night stay in a Moivaro Lodge, we were on the way to Kibo Hotel, a well known departure point for climbers in the village of Marangu.

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Up to that point, it seemed like a stroll in a national park. At the pre-climb briefing, we were to hear about High Altitude Pulmonary and Cerebral Oedema. Despite having read about it, having a smiling Tanzanian tell you how either one of those can lead to death, adds a certain degree of gravity. Our route was explained to us and we were to be dropped off at Rongai gate by the fleet of old Land Rovers.

We left a change of clean clothes behind us in a hotel, as well as our valuables, which turned out to be an inspired decision, and one I would recommend.

The climbing started at 1,900m above sea level. Even though the initial slope was gentle, on a hot day and with a weight of anxiousness, it was still tough until we reached the forest. We were lucky to spot few Columbus monkeys doing monkey things in the trees, but overall, there was little wildlife, but the forest was lush and cool, which made trekking more pleasant. Four hours later, and the forested area well behind us, we arrived at our first camp, Rongai 1, set at 2,700m. By this time we were firmly into moorland dominated by the ominous looking Mawenzi, the second highest peak of Kilimanjaro.

The porters move at twice the speed of tourists despite carrying four times the load, so by the time we arrived, camp was set up, with a mess tent and tea awaiting.

Part of our acclimatization regime was a daily trek ascending 200m. The basic premise is that you walk high and sleep low. The after dinner entertainment was star gazing. Being very near the equator and quite high, with clear sky and no light pollution, the views were breathtaking. Evenings got cold very quickly. Even in a four season sleeping bag, sleeping on three-inch thick safari mat, I would wake up at 4am feeling chilly.

Morning started at 6am with tea or coffee, and breakfast was porridge with fresh mango or pineapple, plus bacon, eggs and bread. Given that all food was carried, and our party consisted of 12 climbers and 44 staff, it was amazing that the kitchen managed to produce such tasty food all the way to the top.

After breakfast, the porters stayed behind to pack everything up, then zoomed past us to set up the next camp.

The second day trek took seven hours to reach Kikelawa, at 3,700m. It was hot and exposed after Rongai 1, so a bandana around the neck brimmed hat was a must, as well as sun cream. I found myself looking back as much as forward because the view of the great plain behind us was overwhelming.

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