When Thomas Cook launched his paddle-steamer holidays along the Nile in the wake of the Suez Canal’s opening in 1869, his wealthy customers would have observed the delightful feluccas sailing past, the swaying date palms, the fantastic light at sunset and the villages dotting the riverbanks with their mud-brick houses, minarets and pigeon lofts.

Take away the dams, the locks and the cruising ships that ply the 235km (145mile) stretch of the Nile from Luxor to Aswan and things are not too different today.

The cruise offers a step back in time, a gentler pace of life, guaranteed hot, dry sunshine and, of course, the magnificent temples, tombs, art and inspiration of Ancient Egypt. It also provides a taste of both Arabic and African culture. Combine that with the benefits of five-star comfort and serial relaxing – swimming, sunbathing and a Sakara beer on the top deck – as you glide alongside the riverbanks and you have a very attractive break.

As the sun goes down over the mountains in the Nubian city of Aswan, you watch the feluccas with their huge white sails crisscross the waters, and you could almost be in an African Cornwall – the Fowey estuary bathed in an exotic light.

Look east and there is the admirable Cataract Hotel, an Edwardian landmark from whose terrace Agatha Christie is said to have written Death on the Nile: look west and there is Kitchener’s Island, where the imperial general relaxed in his botanical sanctuary. Watch the herons, swallows and kingfishers enjoy the Nile sunshine.

There is much to see aside from the classic sights, which include Karnak, Egypt’s biggest temple, and the spectacular Phi-lae, a Greco-Roman masterpiece. We learnt how Egyptian pure essences are in great demand by the big perfumeries with a Luxor visit to Al Fayed “perfumes palace and handcrafted glasses”.

In Aswan we were shown how papyrus is made and was used to record the legends and stories of Ancient Egypt.

A popular option is to take a hot-air balloon over the West Bank at Luxor. It means an early start, but what a glorious way to see the Valleys of the Kings and Queens. Some suckers for punishment chose a camel ride instead. We rode past date palms and banana trees, beside fields of wheat, potatoes and sugar cane, to a village where we enjoyed mint tea and fresh bread at the stables.

There is also a hectic round of on-board activities with belly dancing, whirling dervishes, “Egyptian night” parties and even bingo. Everyone eats too much and, for those with a guilty conscience, the cruise boats offer a mini-gym, table tennis and even a sauna to help to reduce the damage.

Our boat, the Domina Prestige, is one of about 300 cruisers. Luxor to Aswan and back takes a week, going at a leisurely 15-20kph. Three years old, and with up to 138 passengers and 84 staff on board, the 72m (235ft), five-deck Domina is a floating hotel. Staff are courteous and friendly and the boat is kept in immaculate condition. Potted plants dot the sundeck, where the pool provides an essential opportunity to cool down from the heat and the day’s cultural endeavours.

Food is plentiful, and few could resist the boat’s speciality – its soups and puddings, but, oh for a lamb or beef curry using all those wonderful spices on offer in the souks. Do not, however, expect to dine black tie at the captain’s table.

The cruise boat captains, or pilots as they are called, may well be former cargo ship skippers from one of the two extended families that supply many of the pilots – hence the loud hooting as the cruise boats pass each other.

What distinguishes the pilots is their deep, inherited knowledge of the Nile. It may be 6,700km long, but it is surprisingly shallow, averaging 3m in depth with a tricky two-boats-at-a-time lock system at Esna (with barely enough room for the cruiser to scrape through).

Libra Holidays: 0871 226 7825; www.libraholidays.co.uk Seven nights full board on the Domina Prestige from £535 per person based on two sharing a main deck cabin. It includes return flights from Gatwick to Luxor, departing in June, and resort transfers.

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