2 for 1 at Pizza Express

Seventeen flights, fifty hotels, seven countries. Four months in to our
year-long, round-the-world odyssey and we are seriously wondering whether we
should stop for a breather. We need to take some time to mull over our
shrinking list of possible living destinations.
We loved Namibia and it enjoyed a surprising, but brief, period at the top of
our wish-to-live-there-list. Crime is minimal, land is cheap, its Germanic
past has left it well organised. We finished there with a flourish, drifting
over the soaring red dunes of Sosussvlei in an enormous hot-air balloon. The
beauty of the place was still making us gasp even as we headed out east to
Tanzania.
We spend our first week lounging on the beach on the lush, tropical coast
below Dar es Salaam. It rains on our first night and we greet the downpour
with delight. We realise how dry Namibia had been and make a decision; we
can’t live in a desert. We are too English to live life without rain.
Refreshed, we are ready to tackle the rest of Tanzania, starting with
Zanzibar. We hire a battered car to tour the island, visiting unspoilt,
beaches where we collect armfuls of small shells, which we will display one
day, “when we have a house”. This has become the family mantra and we have
started to visualise this haven — with no fixed abode, we are free to
fantasise. Mima dreams of the pet snakes she will have one day, Gregor wants
polecats. Nick wants an outsized television, tuned solely to rugby, and
Guinness on tap. I’d like somewhere I could slip away to, on my own, to read
a book.
In northern Tanzania, we visit the nomadic Hadza Bushmen, and spend a morning
trying to keep up with them as they hunt through the undergrowth around
their temporary village. Walking comfortably at a pace that forces us to
trot, they fire their powerful poisoned arrows at anything that crosses
their path. This morning a large female baboon is the unlucky victim, along
with a skinny bushbaby and a tree squirrel.
The bushmen, who are exhilarated by their hunt, ignore us completely, except
to offer a tasty chunk of said baboon, after she has been roasted, hair and
all, into a cindered shadow of her former self. Apart from their rather
dubious taste in food (the uncooked squirrel’s feet are torn off and chewed
up by the grandmother of the clan), there is so much to learn from meeting
these people. The few remaining Hadza Bushmen have rejected all attempts to
conventionalise their way of life.
Outwardly impoverished, materially bereft, they exude a powerful sense of
pride and contentment. They are a close and efficient family unit, three
generations, living together, perpetually moving, working as a team.
They would be astonished by our Western angst. They think we are irrelevant
anyway. They have reminded us of the importance of simple pleasures, of
family, of friends.
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