It was pitch black when we arrived in the Inle town of Nyaungshwe, some eight hours later than planned. Nyaungshwe though was also underwater so we arrived at our chosen guesthouse in a paddleboat. Thankfully, the Teak Inn provided such welcome comforts as beer and peanuts for late arrivals.

Inle Lake is a lofty 870 metres above sea level and surrounded on both sides by mountains. From head to toe, it measures about 15x7 miles. Burma is a diverse country and Inle is home to several minority tribes including the Shan and the Intha.

Their villages are built on stilts. Most locals are involved in fishing, agriculture or cottage industries like weaving and metal work. The fishermen row paddleboats with their legs - a technique presumably designed to stop their arms getting tired. Nyaungshwe is a place to put your feet up or go explore the lake communities. There is the floating market at Ywamma and a monastery where monks train their cats to jump through hoops.

Market day in Kekku is a gathering of the tribes: long-neck Karen women mingle with neighbouring Barma, Intha and Shan. Most people here and elsewhere in the country are dressed in the traditional longyi - a sarong that men tie with a knot in front, and women fold and tuck. The women and children also paint their faces with thanakhya - a sunscreen make from tree bark - smearing circles or stripes on their cheeks.

A largely rural, densely forested country, Burma is the world's largest exporter of teak and has important and offshore oil and gas deposits. On the eve of independence from Britain in 1948, it was the world's biggest exporter of rice and had high levels of literacy. It should have had a bright future.

Nearly 60 years on, the people remain poor and their human rights neglected. Speaking to locals about the political situation can get them into trouble so you need to be guarded about what you ask. But anger with the regime is never far from the surface. I asked one, a cab driver, why Burma was so different to Thailand across the border, a world away from Rangoon's poor facades and potholed roads.

Giving his name as Muang he said "The government doesn’t know the people. They only care about their own families. What we need is not important to them. We are just like servants." It would appear he is right. Burma's leaders are building a new capital in a remote jungle town called Naypyidaw, a place far removed from the reality of most people's lives.

Pro & anti visit Burma organisations:

Burma campaign UK

Voices for Burma

NEED TO KNOW

Lonely Planet dedicates several pages on the best way of ensuring your money reaches the pockets of local people rather than the coffers of the military government. It recommends choosing smaller, locally run hotels and guesthouses. Government run establishments are often larger and take the name of local tourist landmarks to give them prominence. I stuck to those recommended in the Lonely Planet in all the places I visited.

In Rangoon, I stayed at the Motherland Inn2. This has plenty of cheap clean rooms with air-conditioning, with doubles starting from £5 a night. The Okinawa is a good alternative. It is a Japanese styled hotel situated slap bang in the city centre, with beautifully furnished wood-panel rooms costing around the same price.

In Bagan, most tourists stay in the nearby town of Nyaung U. I stuck with the Lonely Planet and opted for the May Kha Lar Guest House (from £4 per night). The rooms are spacious and clean, the owner speaks excellent English and can organise day trips to the nearby temple complex. In Inle Lake I would recommend the Teakwood Guesthouse, which has a very attractive interior with rooms costing from £5.

Getting Around:

The best way to travel inside Burma is to fly. This is inexpensive with flights, for instance between Inle Lake (Heho) and Rangoon, costing from £35 one-way with no domestic departure tax. There are three privately run airlines. Avoid Myanmar Airways, which is state run and has a questionable safety record.

The railway system is again mostly state run so if you want to ensure your money goes to enterprising locals then opt for the private long distance bus companies. Roads, though, are often poor and a journey that is scheduled to take 15 hours (Rangoon to Bagan) can take a lot longer, particularly in the wet season.

Gifts to take:

The Burmese are mad about English Premier League football so bring lots of stickers for fans young and old.

Burma is a poor country with limited educational resources so bringing pens, pads and English books is a good idea.

Essentials:

Take plenty of dollars in cash. The Western economic boycott means there are no ATMs and banks that can cash traveller’s checks.

Bring mosquito repellent and consult your doctor about taking anti-malarial tablets.

Times recommends

• Oasis of the Seas: the Times review
• The 20 best new year party places to stay
• Green Spaces 2009: are you the winning writer?