Not for the first time, the UK and Australian governments disagree when it comes to giving their citizens travel advice.

The UK says go, the Aussies say no. In its usual diplomatic and cautious language, the Foreign and Commonwealth Office states: "There are reports of widespread unrest in the city of Lhasa.

"There is no indication that foreigners are being targeted, but there is potential that you could be caught up in the violence. You are advised to avoid areas where demonstrations are taking place and avoid unnecessary movement within the city until the situation is under control."

But according to the Australian Government's travel advice, you shouldn't take a chance. "The situation on the streets of Lhasa remains tense. In these circumstances, you should reconsider your need to travel to Lhasa."

Ticket to Tibet: top of the world

Jane Macartney takes a 48-hour railway journey to Lhasa, capital of the Himalayan region of Tibet

• Brighton to Hong Kong by rail

Thubron's travels around China

In the high valleys of western China, the author finds a monastic refuge from the brutal weather

• The Chinese capital swamped by desert

BACKGROUND

• At home in the Himalayas

• Foreigners are barred from wandering alone in Tibet

• How to say Shangri-La

Related Internet Links

• Research more travel to Tibet

Related Links

• World demands Chinese restraint

• Ticket to Tibet: top of the world

Whether you should travel, morally, is a question that even the pressure group Free Tibet says it cannot answer. "There is no simple answer regarding the ethical issues involved in travelling to Tibet. Ultimately, it is up to the individual traveller," says its website.

On one hand, it recognises that travelling lends legitimacy to China's occupation and puts money into China's coffers: on the other, visitors are encouraged by the Dalai Lama to engage with Tibetans and provide information to support organisations outside the country.

A more prosaic response is given on the excellent Tibet travel website Himmies: " At least in Tibet, you will get shaken and jangled around, and the most life-threatening situation will be your driver. As for ethical questions, the Dalai Lama actually encourages people to go to Tibet - and then tell the world what they have seen."

The Himmies site also gives advice about what to take: "An open mind, a good sense of humour. A shovel for the propaganda. A big bag of some kind of hard currency."

A company that offers Tibet permits, www.tibettravel.info, advises you not to mention your interest in Tibet travel when you obtain your China visa, according to a report on the New York Times website in a good 2007 round-up of travel to Tibet.

It's technically necessary to obtain a visa for travel in Tibet before you arrive, in addition to a Chinese visa. Since July, 2007, foreigners are also no longer allowed to apply for a permit to enter the region from the office of the Tibetan travel bureau in the southwestern city of Chengdu, from where there are direct flights to Lhasa. The report in The Times adds that all travel must be approved by the head office in Lhasa, which operates under police supervision.

But many websites say it is still possible to travel to Chengdu then catch a flight to Llhasa. Such a move also gets around the official requirement to travel in a group in Tibet.

Another way to get to Lhasa is on the high-altitude daily express train running between Beijing and Lhasa which opened in July, 2006.. Read Jane Macartney's account of taking the high-altitude train to Lhasa, which crosses a 5,200m pass before arriving in Lhasa. The journey takes 48 hours and full details and timetables can be found on www.chinatibettrain.com .

You will not be able to buy a train ticket from a tour operator unless it’s part of a package, but if you are planning to travel around Tibet, you could buy one as soon as you arrive. Visit Tibet Travel & Tours (00 86 891 6922114, www.visittibet.com) will sell you a sleeper berth for £110 if you book 11 days in advance.

Although three years old, there is a very good overview about travel to Tibet on the Travel Library website.

It includes this aside: "In 1979, when the first western tourists were permitted a peek at Lhasa by the Chinese only 1,200 Westerners had ever seen the holy city (including some 600 invading members of the Younghusband Expedition of 1903-4) - credited to be from Tibet a travel survival kit by Lonely Planet.

Even older is a moral travel site edited by Dr Matthew Ciolek which has some very pertinent historical and logistical background on travel to Tibet. But you can read contemporary accounts from travellers on the road on the Real Travel website. Recommended.

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