Even more unlikely than an 007 mission on Tasmania is the man behind the luxury retreat, perched on a ridge in rolling fields near Sheffield. Three years ago, Des Brown was a 56-year-old dairy farmer with a vision: “I wanted to put this fantastic view on the map.” The Tasmanian has succeeded magnificently. Eagle’s Nest’s huge 4.1-by-9.6m (14-by-31ft) window looks directly on to Tassie’s Uluru.

I spent hours gazing as Mt Rowland basked in sunlight, slipped behind cloud, and, at night, adopted the swirling crown of the southern lights. Ten other mountains and ranges are visible from the two-bedroom accommodation.

Des designed Eagle’s Nest to display his farm’s heritage. The main bed is made from milking equipment and the outside table from a mechanical rake, while the candlesticks and gorgeous ceiling beams are hewn from old barn wood.

The retreat, where you can order an in-house massage or meals prepared on-site, unashamedly promotes Tasmanian food, timber and art.

From £143 a night: 00 61 3 6491 1511, www.eaglesnestretreat.com.au.

Cradle Mountain Lodge

BOOTS, cagoules and pepperberry leg exfoliations are all part of the wilderness experience at Cradle Mountain Lodge. After a soul-stirring hike, I abandoned my crusty socks and enjoyed a lavender and rosewood facial, topped off with an outdoor spa bath.

The retreat, on the edge of World Heritage Wilderness, opened the Waldheim Alpine Spa last June, a striking new complex of local stone, slate and recycled timber that blends into surrounding bush.

Sodashi products are fused with local ingredients — my warm Vichy rain shower flowed from the Pencil Pine River — to offer a “sensory journey”. Frankly it just felt damn good for an aching back.

The refurbishment also opened two luxury King Billy suites. They have outdoor decks with hot tubs and epic bathrooms. Most of its 90 timbers suites and cabins are cosy rather than luxurious, with balconies surrounded by forest crawling with wombats and possums.

Meals in the main lodge’s Highland Restaurant are definitely hearty gourmet rather than nouvelle cuisine. The medallions of Spreyton beef with whisky glaze should be carried by mountain rescue.

In the hands of expert lodge guides, I hiked, canoed and watched Tasmanian devils, before visiting the superb new Wilderness Gallery just down the road; Australia’s first exhibition space for photography of the great outdoors.

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