Travelling through the Rocky Mountains in Canada in the mid-19th century was a
gruelling and dangerous adventure. In winter, deep snow and avalanches kept
people holed up on one side of the Continental Divide or the other; in
summer blistering heat, forest fires and some of the most unforgiving
terrain in the world kept the pace slow.
But on November 7, 1885, it all became that much easier. At the small British
Columbia outpost of Craigellachie, named after the legendary rock in
Banffshire, Scotland, the last spike of the Canadian Pacific Railway was
driven, completing Canada’s first transcontinental railway.
Today it is still a vital artery in Canada’s economy, transporting valuable
exports to harbours on both sides of the country. But its importance goes
far beyond the realm of economics. The railway helped to forge a nation; it
was the thread that stitched the country together and, in turn, became the
conduit by which thousands of settlers and immigrants moved west to seek a
new life.
That pioneering spirit still exists. One of the best ways to experience it is
to ride among the magnificent peaks and valleys of the provinces of Alberta
and British Columbia aboard the Rocky Mountaineer, a train dedicated
to showing off Western Canada’s eye-popping scenery and wildlife.
Started in 1988 by Via Rail Canada, a joint government and Crown corporation,
it ran for two seasons before being turned over to a private operator. The
first Rocky Mountaineer pulled out of Vancouver in May 1990 and has
been running every summer since. More recently four winter departures have
been added.
the train at the famous Rocky Mountain town of Banff, Alberta. As I am riding
in Goldleaf Service I have access to the double-decker dome car, a
glass-bubble coach offering panoramic views of the scenery beyond. The seats
are spacious and comfortable, akin to airline business class. Like their
high-flying rivals, the train staff settle us in with a refreshing glass of
champagne and orange juice. This is what I call pioneering spirit.
Once under way, it does not take long for the outside world to make an impact.
Rising to about 9,000ft (2,675m), Castle Mountain practically climbs into
the dome car with us. It fills the scene with its bulky, turreted peaks; its
horizontal rock layers are evidence of the dramatic seismic activity that
formed the Rocky Mountains millions of years ago.
At the small station of Stephen, named after Lord Mount Stephen, the first
president of the CPR, we cross the Continental Divide, the highest point on
the line at 5,332ft above sea level. From here it is all downhill to
Vancouver and the Pacific, a mere 550 miles (885km) away. But to get there
we have to snake through some impossibly narrow canyons, pass towns with
unlikely names such as Beavermouth, Skuzzy Creek and Hope, and navigate
around and through the Purcell Mountains, the Ottertail Range, the Skeenas
and the Three Sisters.
Each dome car is equipped with an outdoor vestibule, a small open-air quarter
at the rear where passengers can drink in the fresh mountain air and
exercise their shutter-clicking fingers for uninterrupted photography. From
here we spot elk and deer, ospreys and eagles, but sadly no bears — or, at
least, I didn’t.
Between scenic overloads I have time to chat with my fellow passengers. A
group of 49, they come from all over the UK and travelled together across
Canada from Toronto, first on Via Rail’s flagship train, The
Canadian, before boarding the Rocky Mountaineer in Banff.
“It’s an adventure I would recommend to anyone,” says Colin Wheeler, 57, a
safety officer for the Post Office in London. “I was expecting a really
exciting holiday and haven’t been disappointed. The people I’m travelling
with are incredibly friendly and that has only added to the experience.”
Goldleaf Service is not cheap and, perhaps, for that reason it attracts a
specific type of traveller.
“It’s too easy to undervalue the removal of stress,” says 50-year-old Nigel
Wood. “As an accountant, I am acutely aware of the numbers, but to have all
the hassle taken away — no luggage problems, hotel check-ins are already
done, meals prepared — is worth something. It all adds up to value for
money.”
From the moment I board I am told that I need to bring my appetite. The dining
car, in the bottom deck of the dome, is fitted out to the standard of any
five-star restaurant, but with a constantly changing view that few
restaurants could ever hope to match. As I tuck into local salmon and
scallop spaghettini we pass the Hoodoos, pillows of rock and clay that were
formed at the end of the last Ice Age as the glaciers retreated. There is a
complicated geological explanation as to how they were fashioned, but I
prefer the Native Canadian legend: the Hoodoos are the remains of maidens
who never had the chance to love and were turned to stone.
With so many spectacular peaks, all carrying a heavy load of winter snow, it
is only natural that large lakes have formed in many British Columbia
valleys. The Shuswap group of lakes is one of the province’s most popular
summer destinations. With hundreds of miles of waterways, it attracts
boating and fishing enthusiasts from all over Canada.
As we chug along the southern edge, with the sun low on the western horizon
ahead of us, I cannot help wondering how many of those on the lake gave any
thought to the legend of Ogopogo, Canada’s version of Nessie, which is said
to lurk among the deep underwater caves and caverns.
By the time we pass the small city of Kamloops along the Thompson River and
enter Fraser Canyon we have left the giant peaks of the Rockies behind. Now
the landscape is dry and desert-like. From the vestibule we can see dozens
of whitewater rafters battling the rapids of the Jaws of Death Gorge. A few
miles further on, the clear waters of the Thompson mix with the muddy Fraser
River. The canyon gradually narrows, the train clings to a path cleaved out
of the steep cliffs.
As the river boils below, ahead of us is the tightest point — Hell’s Gate. As
much as 200 million gallons of water surge through the 110ft-wide gorge
every minute. In pioneer days trappers and miners were forced to carry boats
and equipment overland around the impasse to continue the journey
downstream. Today, though, tourists are able to get a bird’s-eye view from
the Swiss-built tramway that crosses the river.
The last set of mountains before reaching the Pacific Ocean is the Coast
Range; again the landscape has changed. The west coast of British Columbia
is one of the largest temperate rainforests in the world — it is
unbelievably green.
Nutrient-rich soil and plenty of rain allow some of the tallest trees anywhere
to thrive. The western red cedar can grow to 200ft and live for 1,000 years.
Native Canadians have used it for weapons, tools and canoes for centuries.
The Douglas fir can reach 260ft and is the backbone of British Columbia’s
forestry industry.
The last miles of the journey are along the wide Fraser Valley. We pass one
small town after another before reaching Vancouver, our final destination.
The timing could not be better.
As I check into the hotel for my last night the sun is still high enough for
me to make it down to the beach and watch it set slowly into the blue depths
of the Pacific.
Doug McKinlay travelled with Great Rail Journeys (01904 521970, www.greatrail.com)
on a 17-day journey, including Niagara Falls, the Rockies, the prairies, cities
and Vancouver island. It costs from £2,790 per person, including London to
Toronto and Vancouver to London flights, 13 nights in hotels, seven breakfasts
and lunches, four dinners, travel on The Canadian with all meals, Goldleaf
Dome accommodation on the Rocky Mountaineer with all meals & outings.
Rocky Mountaineer Railtours: 01622 832244, www.rockymountaineer.com
