Next morning the only sound was birdsong as I crossed a wooden footbridge through mangroves alive with yellow-breasted warblers, currently the only visitors from North America, for an early swim. Even as a seasoned Caribbean traveller I had a sharp intake of breath. The beach, a gentle curve of Johnson's soft white sand a mile-long, is a stunner and immediately went into my all-time top five. Apart from a flock of gulls and a solitary wader, it was mine alone.

After breakfast, reservations manager Silvio O'Farrill took us on a golf buggy tour of the resort to reveal another mile-long beach of equal beauty and just as empty. He explained that only 50 of the resort's 500 rooms were taken, mainly by middle-aged Canadians, hence the empty sunbeds. Admittedly it was late October, therefore low season, but it felt uncomfortably quiet, like being the only diners in a restaurant.

"Yes, it is sad," he said. "Everything is pristine and virgin here as the only building is the hotel. No one lives here. I wish we could accept North Americans, then I think we'd be full," he added wistfully. Still, it's easy to be positive about a spectacular empty beach. Even a two-minute paddle brought shoals of trumpet fish, various pretty starfish and an inquisitive ray. Silvio told us that the water was just as rich in fish for the plate and you could catch snapper, barracuda and grouper straight from the beach.

So why then was there no choice except surf n' turf, a pet hate of mine, on the menu at the beach restaurant that evening? We all started with shrimp cocktail embellished with lumps of hard cheese. No thanks. The "turf" was a passable steak, but the "surf" was yet more dry bready shrimps. They must have been frozen. Why aren't they catching that fish? If Castro can lift his curbs on paladars, can't he allow a few private fishing boats to service the hotels?

The staff are so eager to please, carrying our drinks great distances down the beach, and the water is such perfection that I don't want to be picky, but every time we eavesdropped on our fellow guests they were complaining about the food. Surely the Italian restaurant could do better? On our last night we ordered a bottle of excellent Chilean red (we had no complaints about the drinks) and I decided to play safe with a simple mozarella, tomato and basil salad starter.

It arrived with great ceremony under a silver dome - another pet hate but I'm trying to be fair. The maitre d' removed it with a flourish to reveal a single Kraft cheese slice garnished with three sliced baby tomatoes. Of course I could have complained, but I just looked at my husband and burst out laughing. Later, strolling along that wonderful empty beach by moonlight, we agreed that despite the food we might still come back, but next time we are bringing a rod to catch our own supper.

NEED TO KNOW

Jill Hartley visited Cuba with Caribtours (0207 751 0660), A 10-night package starts at £1,463 per person, including return flights with Virgin Atlantic to Havana, internal return flights to Cayo Las Brujas, three nights b&b at the Saratoga and seven nights all-inclusive at the Royal Hideaway Los Ensenachos. Booking is essential at La Guarida ( 00 53 7 863 7351)

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