Its 36 beaches smile onto a translucent turquoise sea; the restaurant scene is rightly renowned and the nightlife full-on and fizzing. Little wonder, then, that St Martin has been luring tourists from France, Holland and North America for years. But, for some strange reason, this fantastic island is barely a blip on our radar screens.

Especially strange since you get two holidays for the price of one: St Martin happens to be the smallest island on the planet that’s shared by two countries. Two-thirds is called Saint Martin and is in the French Caribbean — all sophistication, fine dining, fashion boutiques and gingerbread houses; and one-third is called Sint Maarten, in the Dutch Antilles — with faster food, noisier nightlife and swanky casinos.

Folklore has the bickering Euros divvying up the island with a walking race. A Frenchman and a Dutchman left from the same spot at the same time, one clockwise, the other anti — the border would be the straight line from where they started to where they met up on the other side. But one spiked the other’s drink, and the resulting handover by hangover saw France score the lion’s share.

There are no hard feelings, though, nor any border guards or formalities at all, for that matter — this is cohabitation Caribbean-style. One moment you’re buying a baguette for breakfast, the next having a Dutch pancake for lunch.

Package prices are per person for a B&B week in May, including flights from London (usually via Antigua or Paris) and transfers. Where per-night rates are listed, you will need to book your trip independently. For flights, see Travel brief

WHERE TO STAY

Away from the condos and bland resort offerings, there are secluded places with character and value.

Top end: there’s only one real top-end contender. La Samanna (020 8604 2242, www.lasamanna.com) is the only hotel on the beautiful crescent-shaped Long Bay. Most of the 83 rooms are strung out villa-style along the low, sloping cliff, and each is ocean-facing, spacious and decorated in fresh contemporary creole style. The Restaurant occupies the hotel’s panoramic terrace: a top spot for a sunset-draped romantic meal. From £1,489, B&B, with Exsus Travel (020 7292 5060, www.exsus.com).

Down a few notches but still worth considering is the Alamanda Resort (00 590 590 528740, www.alamanda-resort.com) on lively Orient Beach. There’s a nice pool and bright, rattan-furnished rooms — just a flip-flop away from white sand and windsurfing. Through Virgin Holidays (0871 222 0304, www.virgin.com/holidays), £1,049, room-only.

Mid-range: the Inn at Cupecoy (00 599 545 4333, www.theinnatcupecoy.com) is a quirky little hotel with a rooftop pool. Rooms are artfully decorated — four-poster beds, zebra-skin rugs and modern art; doubles start at £77, B&B. It’s above an upmarket deli and the innovative Citrus restaurant (mains from £13). You’ll need wheels, as it isn’t by the beach.

Mary’s Boon Beach Plantation (00 599 545 7000, www.marysboon.com) sits on a three-mile beach. It’s a no-nonsense, family-friendly place with 26 good-sized rooms, with kitchenettes, from £39. There’s a small pool, an attractive dining area and a runway. The last belongs to the international airport — handy for when Mary used to taxi her private plane straight into the yard. It’s still a good bet, though, as the jets mainly come and go in the afternoons.

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