However much of a cliché a Caribbean holiday has become in this age of Footballers’ Wives and bling on the beach, it cannot be denied that these sun- soaked islands offer something for every mood. There is no reason to join the cocktail-sipping hordes if you prefer seclusion, or compromise on style to get a full-on foodie or spa experience.

Nevis, part of the Federation of St Kitts and Nevis, is a good example. The island has pretty, converted plantation houses offering refreshingly different levels of accommodation for all tastes and budgets.

Prices are based on bookings made with Seasons in Style, unless stated otherwise.

Montpelier Plantation Inn

Unfolding crushed limbs after a day’s flying and a taxi ride, instead of a busy hotel lobby I found the stress-free silent shade of a giant date palm in the driveway. There were heavy stone pots spilling greenery on the front steps and beyond the wide wooden door of the plantation house, a cool stone-walled lounge with pale cream sofas and easy chairs. Beyond, the bliss of the estate gardens festooned with pink frangipani, date, bamboo, coconut palms, flame trees, oleander, and creamy white country flower, and below its gentle slopes, the glittering sea. This place is worth a day’s travel.

The Hoffman family took over the 17-room property four years ago and are at pains to point out that while they are American, the Americanisation of this traditional and laid-back inn is not what they are about. Peace reigns from the low-built rooms in the gardens (no clocks, radios or TVs) to the fabulous pool, from the bar to the library and restaurant terrace. Subtle upgrading of rooms has brought dark wicker and wood offset by muslin and fresh citrus accents. Bathroom refurbs are under way. Then there is the food. The English executive chef Mark Roberts has ensured that this is a destination restaurant with his fillet of mahi-mahi with leek and celery fish sauce on potato onion cake, sautéed shrimp with capers, olives and peppers on angel-hair pasta and vanilla crème brûlée.

Bottom line: Until December 15, one week’s B&B in a premier twin room is from £1,965pp, including flights and private transfers.

What’s hot: Breakfast. Not a meal, an event. Views from rooms 10, 7 and 8.

What’s not: Honeymoon suite lacks pizzazz.


THE HERMITAGE

Boho bliss in the unlikeliest location. Gingerbread cottages of charming simplicity are scattered across hibiscus and bougainvillea-filled stone-terraced gardens surrounded by rainforest.

No frills in the 15 individual rooms, all with verandas: netted beds, plain furniture, polished wood, calico, crochet, hammocks rocked by trade winds, wrought iron, painted floorboards and planters’ chairs.

The wooden Great House, built between 1640 and 1670, is one of the oldest wooden houses in the western hemisphere. The owners, Richard and Maureen Lupinacci, have lived here since the early 1970s. They occupy the upper floor, which probably explains why the striped and chintzed guests’ sitting and dining rooms feel like a family home, with their faded rugs, Bajan tub chairs, mahogany sofas, hurricane lamps, and blue and white china and cut crystal decanters lining the shelves. The dining room offers one big table covered in crisp white linen and a forest of glass (lamps, drinking vessels). Or you can sit out on the restaurant terrace, as I did for lunch (a delicious tuna sandwich) or order room service for a romantic dinner à deux.

Bottom line: About £100 to £240 a night B&B. Book direct (001 869 469 3477, www.hermitagenevis.com).

What’s hot: The Pink House.

What’s not: Pool area with old loungers.


Golden Rock Plantation Inn

What Golden Rock lacks in sophistication it almost makes up for with its heavenly setting. Almost, because the 14 rooms (seven divided cottages) don’t cut it — but refurbishment is scheduled later this winter.

The proprietor, Pam Barry, lives and breathes this place — her forebear built the estate from lava stone between 1801 and 1815. She knows every plant, insect and bird in her rambling gardens and identifies them for you as she ferries Golden Rock’s lunchtime lobster and shrimp sandwiches (£8) and chilled white wine to your shady table as you survey Montserrat’s volcano across the sea.

By November, the dining room in the stone Long House will have a circular roof and terraces, overlooking a pond with night-blooming lilies, the ocean and rising moon. No music, says Barry, “so you can hear the wind in the trees and tree frogs singing”. One to watch.

Bottom line: From £80 room only, or £140 half-board per night. Book direct (869 469 3346, www.golden-rock.com).

What’s hot: Potential as clubby cult hangout.

What’s not: Sugar Mill suite is gloomy. Long House bar and reading room need contemporary coaxing.

Sally Shalam travelled to Nevis with Seasons in Style (01244 202000, www.seasonsinstyle.co.uk).

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