Eating: Jandranka (21 635434, £9pp) is good for seafood and exceptionally friendly service. Or try the consistently popular Konoba Gust (21 635911, £14).

Nightlife: Faces nightclub (21 321006), on the hill above town, is owned by a famous Croatian footballer and each night hosts 2,000 hedonists dancing alfresco.

Sample package: Bond Tours (01372 745300, www.bondtours.com) has a week at the Hotel Kastil, half-board, from £399.

RAB

The sandy island Sand is in short supply in Croatia. Most beaches are pebble, shingle or — in extreme cases — concrete. Coming across the real deal, as you do on Rab, is quite a thrill.

This island is shaped like a lobster, and its long, barren “body” is a desolate place, whipped by the bura wind and almost devoid of life. The island’s west-facing head and claws, though, more than make up for it. It is here, in the most sheltered part of the island, that you’ll find Rab’s greenery, its most attractive town and that precious sand.

The beaches to head for are those around San Marino, on the Lopar peninsula. Otherwise known as “Paradise Beach” — yes, sand is that unusual — the main bay is just about big enough to cope with the summer crowds.

Beyond the beach lies the island’s main settlement, Rab town, and it is one of the Adriatic’s best. Its Great Bell Tower looks like the crow’s-nest of a grounded ocean liner, while the medieval town is crammed onto the deck below — all romanesque towers, shuttered houses and streets so worn they shine. Rab town occupies a peninsula: on the port side is a busy marina; on the starboard, an urban beach. Altogether it’s an exquisite place: think San Gimignano overlooking Mon-aco harbour.

The town is also the place to bag a boat trip (£15). At 9.30am, vessels leave the marina, taking tourists to otherwise inaccessible coves or to visit Goli Otok — once a prison island for those who fell out of favour with Tito’s regime.

Staying: the best hotel in town is Hotel Istra (00 385-51 724276), overlooking the marina: £30pp, B&B. The Dragica Pansion (51 775420), set just back from the beach on the Lopar peninsula, is also a good choice: £20, B&B. For private rooms on the island, try Katurbo (51 724495, www.katurbo.hr)

Eating: for seafood — especially mussels — you’ll struggle to beat Labarint (£15 for two courses, including wine).

Nightlife: for sundowners, it has to be the Banova Vila bar, on Rab town’s western promenade. It even has its own water-polo court just offshore.

Sample package: Hidden Croatia (020 7736 6066, www.hiddencroatia.com) has a week, half-board, at the Padova Hotel in Rab town from £429 in July.

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