For much of the 1990s the Croatian city of Split was best known as the safe gateway to the Balkan wars for journalists and diplomats, having suffered only one brief bombardment. Today it is the holiday gateway to a spectacular stretch of coast, to beautiful islands and to thousands of years of history.

Yet the city is often overlooked in favour of Dubrovnik to the south and the Istrian coast to the north. Perhaps this is because of the enthusiasm of its former Communist rulers to build factories and refineries along the inlet leading from the airport to the city and to erect featureless apartment blocks. Even Croatia Airlines, the national carrier, routes many flights to European capitals via Zagreb.

But the city and its environs are worth discovering. Behind a modern waterfront promenade is an astonishing building: Diocletian's Palace, a huge, square Roman citadel built in AD300. It was rebuilt largely in the 7th century and altered continuously since then but the base of the Roman walls, cellars and street plan remain. Along its southern façade are 42 windows, designed so that the Emperor Diocletian could enjoy a continuous view of the sea as he strolled the inner corridor, contemplating further persecution of the Christians.

At the heart of this Unesco World Heritage Site is a 13th-century cathedral with pillars and a sphinx brought from Ancient Egypt. In the neighbouring streets are souvenir and clothes shops, banks and apartments. Beyond the western gate are imposing structures of a different era, Venetian squares and palaces. On the edge of the historic centre is a thriving café culture and nightlife.

From the harbour, ferries leave for the Dalmatian islands: Brac, a source of marble and olive oil and home to pretty villages and the Golden Cape, and Hvar, the fashionable resort.

Those interested in history and culture should stay on the mainland and seek out Salona, on the outskirts of Split but hard to find. This vast site was one of the most important cities in the Roman Empire but is neglected today, leaving visitors to search for its treasures, such as the forum, cemeteries and amphitheatre.

Walking the paths, which would have been crowded 1,800 years ago but now look out over olive groves and broom, is atmospheric but the local attitude to Salona is summed up by its archaeological museum. It was built using materials from the site, with bits of Roman busts and capitals filling up the window spaces, rather like a child's efforts to construct something from differently shaped bricks.

In a more pristine state is Trogir, a tiny town of white stone buildings and flagged streets a few miles to the west. Also a World Heritage Site, it sits on a little island, separated from the mainland by a channel and with a bridge leading to the bigger holiday isle of Ciovo. A cathedral started in the 13th century, a Venetian fortress and four-

storey houses from the 17th century are among its finest buildings, while a boardwalk backed by palm trees, cafés, a church and palace sit beside a quay, where yachts moor in summer.

Among the many gems in and around Split is one of the finest seaside hotels in the region. Le Méridien Lav (it takes its unfortunate name from the construction company of a former owner) won three prizes at last year's World Travel Awards and has most imaginable facilities, ranging from a children's club to a casino. Lying 8km (5 miles) south of Split, it has a spa named after Diocletian, large indoor and outdoor pools, tennis courts and a promenade beside the sea, stretching to the hotel's marina.

Best of all, it has a special deal with rooms for two costing from €60 (about £55) a night when you book for four or more nights. This 40 per cent saving, part of the Starwood Hotels group's More is Less promotion, is available on holidays throughout the spring and summer but they must be booked by the end of this month.

The Cheapflights website will lead you to return fares next month from £244 for Croatia Airlines' flights from Heathrow to Split, some of them, via Zagreb. EasyJet starts direct but early-morning flights from Gatwick on April 23 with return fares from about £100.

www.lemeridien.com/split - 00 385 21500500

www.starwoodhotels.com/moreisless

www.cheapflights.co.uk

www.easyjet.com

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