The launch of the first no-frills flights from the UK to Zagreb this month is expected to lead to a big increase in visitors to the Croatian capital. And not before time — this is a city that combines the charm of Central Europe with the joie de vivre of Croatia’s coastal resorts. The cafés and Habsburg-era opera house are straight out of Vienna or Prague, while the lifestyle is pure Mediterranean. In summer, everyone comes out on to the streets at midnight to drink beer and eat ice-cream; in winter, when the temperature is below freezing and the city is covered in a light dusting of snow, they come out anyway, to eat roast chestnuts and drink hot chocolate and mulled wine.

Zagreb has all the ingredients for a relaxing weekend break. The English football team will be playing there on October 11 — so go now before the stag parties and football fans arrive.

WHERE TO STAY

The Regent Esplanade (Mihanoviceva 1; 00 385 1 456 6666, www.theregentzagreb.com) is the grande dame of Zagreb hotels, built in 1925 for passengers arriving on the Orient-Express and recently reopened, with Art Nouveau architecture, wood panels and marble bathrooms. Doubles from £140, or packages available through Bond Tours (01372 745300, www.bondtours.com) from £429pp for three nights including flights.

The funky Austrian-owned Arcotel Allegra (Branimirova 29; 469 6000, www.arcotel.cc/allegra) bills itself as Zagreb’s first design hotel, with an aquarium in the lobby and DVD players in every room. The hotel is part of a trendy shopping mall near the railway station. Doubles from £85.

The 15-room Hotel Slisko (Supilova 13; 618 4777, www.slisko.hr) is a family-run hotel near the bus station, a short tram ride from the main square, with plain but comfortable doubles for £50.

WHERE TO EAT

It’s hard to beat a meal on the flower-filled summer terrace of Pod Grickim Topom (Zakmardijeve Stube 5; 483 3607), overlooking the city beside the upper funicular terminus. Try Zagreb-style steak stuffed with ham and cheese, or superb fresh fish.

Paviljon (Trg kralja Tomislava 22; 481 3066, www.restaurant-paviljon.com; closed Sun) is the city’s most elegant address, where you dine surrounded by modern art in the 19th-century Art Pavilion. The house special is crispy roast duck with red cabbage and figs.

Boban (Gajeva 9; 481 1549, www.boban.hr), owned by a former Croatian football star, serves Italian food in a brick cellar near the main square — the tagliatelle with Istrian truffles is a treat.

Vegetarians should check out Ivica i Marica (Tkalciceva 70; 481 7321), offering home-style vegetarian and fish dishes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere with touches of nouvelle cuisine.

For lunch on the run, the grill restaurants on the lower terrace of Dolac market serve classic cevapcici (meatballs) with crusty bread, onions and aubergine relish.

WHERE TO HANG OUT

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