As if to prove the point, in November 2002 Vis islanders voted against a proposal to build a tuna farming project to supply the Japanese sushi market. Although the waters around Vis have been hit hard by overfishing, the islanders took the unprecedented step to protect what the Worldwide Fund for Nature has called one of the “last paradises” left in the Mediterranean.

It’s not hard to see why. The island is surrounded by crystal clear, blue water; the coastline is untouched while the mountainous interior is home to 1,000-year-old carob trees and endangered bird species.

There are only two hotels on the island, one in a large renovated Venetian house, the other a purpose-built structure that is not particularly inviting. However, there is plenty of accommodation in private apartments and houses dotted around the stunning coastline.

On my last day I hired a moped and ventured into Vis’s hilly interior. The winding road up behind the town affords excellent views over the harbour. The Venetian architecture creeps up the pine-covered slope from the water’s blue edge while the ochre-coloured roofs stand out against the town’s backdrop.

The main road that bisects the 15km (9-mile) long island runs through an interior plateau crisscrossed by endless rows of vines before eventually descending into Komiza, Vis’s second town. Colourful fishing boats bob in a harbour lined with restaurants.

“Here in Dalmatia we have well-educated people with a lot of energy,” said Zdravko Banovic, a restaurateur. “They take development seriously and will work hard not to let it get out of hand. We have an opportunity to get tourism right, but only if we are careful.”

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()Need to know

Vis: Doug McKinlay travelled with Croatia Airlines (020-8563 0022, www.croatiaairlines.hr), which has flights from London to Split from £252 return.

Ferries, which run twice a day from Split to Vis, take three hours and cost £6.Alternatively, fly to Ancona in Italy and take an overnight ferry to Split.

Where to stay: There are 250 rooms and 300 apartments to let on Vis. B&B starts at £20pp. For information see www.dalmacija.net.

Hotel Tamaris (00 385 21 711350) has double rooms from £25 a night.

Reading: Insight Guide Croatia (Berlitz, £16.99).

Further information: Croatian National Tourist Office: 020-8563 7979, www.croatia.hr.

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