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After a sweaty journey through the bleak Egyptian desert, the sight of the
sparkling new beachside InterContinental hotel in Hurghada seemed like a
mirage. First, the palm-lined drive and the crenellated walls, then the
verdant gardens embroidered with flowers. Finally, the 445-room hotel
itself, every balconied room boasting an uninterrupted view of the Red Sea.
Only the security checkpoint into the foyer reminded you that this was
Egypt.
It was like stepping into an Arabian fantasy village. No expense had been
spared: hundreds of palm trees had been imported and dotted around; and
criss-crossing the grounds was a network of streams and bridges with an
enormous freeform pool with a fountain as the centrepiece.
Whether this newest addition to the InterContinental portfolio triumphs over
the Egyptian desert depends, in part, on Mark Warner, the British holiday
company that has taken over 108 rooms and imported its enormously popular
blend of all-inclusive childcare, meals and watersports.
On paper, it looked like a perfect destination for my family. Tom, a Devonian
who rather fancies himself as a salty seadog, could try out the watersports.
Three-year-old Rosa could provide a frank assessment of the childcare, while
it fell to me to cast a ruthless eye over all the services that could be
accessed from a sunlounger. And so we became one of the first families to
try out the Mark Warner experience at the Abu Soma resort.
Every family we spoke to was a Mark Warner devotee, lured to Egypt by the
prospect of a family-friendly escape in more luxurious surroundings than the
company usually provides.
Rosa’s day, beginning at 9am, was split into half-hour segments, such as Pool
Fun, Beach Fun or Playground. Indoor activities, such as storytelling or
painting, were sensibly planned for the hottest part of the day. Adjacent to
the bright playrooms was a 24-hour kitchen, with milk, microwave and
sterilising equipment. The centre was closed between 1pm and 3pm — which
meant retrieving the kids for a buffet lunch in the main restaurant.
We tended to use the childcare facilities in the morning and keep Rosa with us
in the afternoon. Slowly, Tom and I began to remember what pre-Rosa holidays
had been like. We read novels instead of Maisy books, snoozed unprodded, and
swam and snorkelled adventurously rather than toddling around in the
shallows. The snorkelling boat from the hotel was timed to fit in with the
childcare hours.
The arrangement suited Rosa well too — she described Sam, her assigned nanny,
as “nice”, a pinnacle of toddler praise. And I quickly relaxed about her
being out of sight. Following afternoons spent building sandcastles — with
Rosa joyously crowning them with the corpses of harmless lilac jellyfish —
we finished our day with a swim in the heated pool near the impressive gym,
sauna and treatment centre.
The main pool and neighbouring children’s pool were simply too cold (Mark
Warner says the pools will now be heated in the colder months) and the pool
bar was closed. This disappointed Rosa, who regards perching on a sub-aqua
stool in her armbands, clutching a fruit juice cocktail, as an essential
holiday experience. It was one of several teething problems with the hotel.
In the large buffet restaurant,the fresh salads, pasta and hot dishes were of
good quality but a little repetitive for both lunch and dinner. So most
evenings, we paid a supplement (these apply to children too) to eat in one
of the excellent à la carte restaurants.
Rosa loved watching her pizza being made and loved eating it even more; at the
Greek taverna we ate barbecued octopus and a rich moussaka. However, unlike
on other Mark Warner holidays, the wine at mealtimes was not included. What
with the restaurant supplements too, the bill at the end of the week — about
£250 — came as a shock, seeing as this was meant to be all-inclusive,
although it did include the watersports tuition.
Aside from the jellyfish, the beach has other drawbacks. Plastic shoes might
be a good idea, given that I spotted a sea snake. It was virtually
impossible to get drinks on the beach during our visit; the company says
waiters are now provided.
But the main gripe was the entertainment. Night after night it comprised a man
in a frilly shirt playing a recorder. The situation has reportedly improved.
The cocktails at the English-style pub, Johnny’s Bar, were overpriced and, I
suspect, underboozy. When we wanted to play pool, I was asked to pay £5. I
expressed my disapproval. “You cannot expect to play pool free in a
five-star hotel,” was the unexpected conversation-closer.
The Mark Warner staff, who are exemplary, could teach the InterContinental
staff a thing or two about keeping customers happy. I hope they do.
In fact, as my husband suggested, put the sailing guys in charge of the bars
and, jellyfish or not, you’d have a pretty cool destination.
Need to know
Getting there: The family travelled with Mark
Warner (0870 7704222). One week at Abu Soma from £525 (children 2-11
from £295).
Their airport hotel was booked via Holiday
Extras (0870 8444186).
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