The company makes much of looking after the guests. Our cabin was on one of the two decks with butler service as well as steward, and ours brought us canapés at 5pm, took our clothes to be pressed.

In the smart main dining room, Michael enjoyed the chattiness of the mostly Eastern European staff. After the initial novelty, I found being offered the arm of the waiter escorting us to our breakfast table a bit much. But lots of attention and familiarity are what Crystal customers like.

Eating is of course a huge feature of cruise life. Dining in the excellent Prego, the Italian restaurant, and Silk Road, the oriental one, had a reasonable £3.50 per head service supplement. Enormous buffets had crowds around them photographing the lavish displays.

Between meals, there were opportunities for self improvement offered by the Creative Learning Institute.

Pre-registration was required for the Berlitz Spanish and Yamaha keyboard classes, but for flibberty types like us there were drop-in dance classes; guest lecturers — it was standing room only for the talk on the Middle East by Caspar Weinberger, Reagan’s defence secretary — and a jewellery design workshop.

Our favourite place was the promenade deck, 434 metres (475 yards) of solid teak, broad enough to walk three abreast comfortably. We signed up for the Walkathon, not aiming to walk around the equivalent of Loch Ness by the end of the cruise, but it was a nice goal.

So would I do it again? Definitely, it was relaxing or stimulating when you wanted it. The luxury was most welcome, though I could manage without the butler — but not the private space of our balcony.

Page 2: Big-time cruises ()

BIG-TIME CRUISES

Princess Cruises is bringing American-style big ship cruising closer by basing the 1,950-passenger Sea Princess in Southampton for seven and 14-night round trips from April to September. The 14-night Mediterranean Magic itinerary costs from £1,066; and seven nights start at £615. Details: 0845 3555800, www.princesscruises.co.uk

Royal Caribbean is tweaking its American-style food and entertainment for the UK market on board the 2,000-passenger Legend of the Seas which makes Southampton her base for the Med from May to October. The 14-night itinerary includes Portugal, Italy, France and Spain and costs from £1,299pp, with free child places on selected departures. A four-night cruise calling at Guernsey and Brest sailing on May 3 costs from £450pp (under 12s £199). Details: 0800 0182020, www.royalcaribbean.co.uk.

Fred Olsen is adding sailings from Liverpool, Belfast and Dublin. The 450-passenger Black Prince will be based in Liverpool for Iberian and Canary Islands cruises. An eight-night round trip wine-themed cruise sailing on March 10, calling at La Rochelle, Bilbao, La Coruña and Oporto, starts at £595pp. Details: 01473 742424, www.fredolsencruises.co.uk.

Thomson is to use UK ports for the first time, sailing from Southampton, Newcastle and Harwich on the 1,200-passenger Thomson Spirit. The 14-night round trip Iberian Odyssey itinerary from Southampton sailing on May 8 and September 19 starts at £999pp. And the seven-night Fiordland Splendours from Newcastle, sailing on May 28 and June 4, starts at £649pp. Details: 0870 5502562, www.thomson.co.uk.

NEED TO KNOW

Getting there: Caroline Hendrie travelled with Crystal Cruises (020-7287 9040, www.crystalcruises.com).

An 11-night Castles and Kings cruise of the British Isles from Copenhagen to Southampton aboard Crystal Symphony sails on August 23, calling at Edinburgh, Oban, Belfast, Dublin, Waterford and Guernsey. Prices start at £2,853pp in a deluxe stateroom with large window; £4,103pp in a deluxe stateroom with veranda; £7,093pp in a penthouse with veranda and butler service.

Prices include flight to Copenhagen, airport transfer, full board, non-alcoholic drinks, and gratuities.

Times recommends

• Oasis of the Seas: the Times review
• The 20 best new year party places to stay
• Green Spaces 2009: are you the winning writer?