When picturing the perfect British mini-break, the mind's eye does not immediately alight on the east Kent coast. Cornwall, always; the Lake District, obviously; even wet Wales has a damp romance to it. But east Kent, with its grimy power stations, pharmaceutical giants and the mighty docks of Dover, does not inspire idyllic imagery.

Ashford, Dover, Folkstone: these are names that conjure up visions of hairy-armed truck drivers thundering towards Poland with a copy of Hustler in one hand and a cheese-and-onion sarnie in the other; of self-important businessmen busily boarding the Eurostar to Brussels.

But there is a grimy nobility to this part of the world, a raw seam of rich history that runs from Hastings in the west to New Romney, Hythe, Dover and Sandwich in the east: the arc of the ancient Cinque Ports, established by the Crown in 1155 to facilitate the exchange of goods between England and the Continent.

At the heart of this area, just a few miles from the old port of Sandwich, now long since silted up, is Deal. This unprepossessing seaside town is a mixture of elegant old-world opulence and trashy, modern-day tackiness. It has a long pier (the last of its size in Kent, having been rebuilt following the Second World War) and a charming old town. It has a fine Tudor castle, commissioned by Henry VIII, and a reputation for smuggling and skulduggery. It is the least pretentious place you could hope to visit: at times down-at-heel, but full of real character.

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Outside Deal proper, the first port of call for any visitor is Sandwich. Since Roman times an important coastal town, it now lies some miles inland, its power cruelly neutered by the shifting sands of the Channel, which began during the reign of Henry VIII. Now it seems almost a suburb of Deal, and indeed the two are connected by the wonderful, majestic Sandwich Bay.

If the weather is fine, it's a perfect bucket- and-spade beach for children. Dotted along the beach are some of the most elegant beach-houses you will ever see.

Sandwich is a gem of a medieval town, one of the best in Britain. The street names alone are a delight: in No Name Street is the appropriately titled No Name Café, much loved by middle-class locals for its twin commitments to good coffee and good cheese.

For self-caterers, the Delf Farm Shop (01304 620830) provides excellent local produce, including Kentish apples.

Heading back towards Deal and onwards, there is one attraction you should not miss: the National Trust's walk along the White Cliffs of Dover (01304 202756). There is not much here except for a visitor's centre and a vast expanse of windswept rock - but what a rock. Teetering on the edge of Britain, the port below looks like a Lego town, with toy ships coming and going. Entrance to the site is free.

Heading inland, the villages of Finglesham and Northbourne are pretty enough to rival any chocolate-box Cotswold equivalent, with the advantage that they are mercifully free of the Boden classes.

Farther afield, of course, is Canterbury, an excellent place to take refuge when the weather lets you down, since it has good shopping, a cinema and, of course, the ancient and beautiful cathedral.

Need to know

Bed down at...

The Bell in Sandwich has good contemporary accommodation in the heart of the medieval town. The Blazing Donkey at Ham, Sandwich, is popular with golfers and offers daily buses to and from the Sandwich and Deal golf course.

Knowlton Court, nearer Canterbury, is an Elizabethan manor that does a roaring trade in weddings, but also offers beautifully refurbished self-catering cottages, such as the Dower House, which has its own tennis court. Also recommended are Wallett's Court, which has spa facilities as well as close proximity to the wonderful Saint Margarets Bay, and the bed and breakfast facilities at the New Mill at Northbourne.

Chow down at...

The Yew Tree in Barfrestone. The food here is exceptional, made with locally sourced ingredients to a standard that would challenge any big-city chef. They are able to cater for large groups - we once went there for lunch as a party of 20, including several small children - and romantic tête-à-têtes alike. The service is warm and efficient, the beer excellent, and the atmosphere convivial. Long may they prosper.

Secret spot

The Golden Hind (85 Beach Street, Deal; 01304 375086), located on the seafront, just opposite the entrance to the pier, is one of the best, most surprising, secondhand bookshops I have ever come across. Here, the dedicated bookworm may encounter any number of delicious finds, from rare editions to affordable curiosities and, on occasion, wonderful vintage prints.

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