Contact: 01386 853555, www.russellsofbroadway.co.uk.

Continued on page 3

()FOR INFORMAL COUNTRY HOSPITALITY
Porlock Vale House
Porlock Weir, Somerset

Now for the weird bit. Five of this year’s winners are in the immediate environs of Dartmoor and Exmoor. This is a lovely part of the world, but it would be miraculous indeed if it were home to half of Britain and Ireland’s best small hotels. On the evidence of my reviews, the case remains unproven.

Porlock Vale House is in a fabulous spot, overlooking the Bristol Channel. You can book all manner of country pursuits here, from clay-pigeon shooting to fly-fishing, and it even has its own highly rated stables. The more basic elements of the hotel experience were, however, rather less inspiring.

The location: Exmoor tumbling down into the sea. 9/10

The room: a tiny shower room had been built into one corner, making a mess of the proportions, and the small portable TV cheapened the whole effect. But the bed was mighty comfortable, and there was a choice of pillows. 7/10

The decor: downstairs, it’s wood-panelled and heavily hunting-lodge in feel. Upstairs is altogether more eclectic — my room mixed beautiful curtains with a ghastly raspberry-coloured carpet. 6/10

The food: homely and hearty, with local ingredients, but needed a lighter touch. My venison was too dry. 7/10

The service: okay, but I didn’t notice much of the “informal country hospitality” that got the GHG so excited. Dinner is served from 7.30 to 8pm only. What’s so informal about that? 6/10

Value for money? Doubles from £110, B&B. 7/10

Does it deserve its César? No. If you’re a tweedy or horsey type, you’ll probably love it. If you’re not, then it’s hard to see what the fuss is about.

Contact: 01643 862338, www.porlockvale.co.uk.

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