Were it not for the lorries that rumble through Alresford you would say that this was almost the perfect English town. But, ironically, the presence of these monster HGVs helps to explain one of the principal reasons for its wider fame.

Generations of locals knew that the clear waters of the River Arle provided ideal growing conditions for watercress, which they sold to neighbouring villages. But the arrival of the railway in 1865 meant that this year-round crop could be transported to Waterloo in the afternoon and be on sale at Covent Garden the next morning. Watercress became big business and, thanks to the “superfood” status of its delicious peppery leaves, still is today. Hence the lorries and the amusing signs directing drivers to the “Salad Depot”.

The railway line that brought the town's principal product to a wider audience was closed in 1973 but, thanks to a band of volunteers to whom local businesses owe an everlasting debt, it opened again in 1985 and is now a thriving attraction. The Mid Hants Railway, or, more commonly, the Watercress Line, runs for ten steeply graded miles to the neighbouring town of Alton, where it meets the mainline services.

It has some beautifully restored steam locomotives and, in the Easter and August holidays, holds its Thomas the Tank Engine events, when the rural calm is shattered by the shrill tones of thousands of overexcited toddlers, some of whom have travelled from Japan to get a glimpse of Thomas, James and the villain Diesel.

If it's a return to tranquillity you seek then a walk alongside the Arle is essential. It is difficult to imagine finding cleaner water this side of an Alpine stream and, if you are vigilant on your riverside stroll, you may spot the town's latest heritage project - the Alresford Eel House, a small brick building that is a minor masterpiece of 19th-century ingenuity. Covered in ivy and crumbling into the water, the eel house had fallen into disrepair but now - showing the same spirit that revived the Watercress Line - a group of volunteers is restoring the building. It will be open several times a year for visitors, although, disappointingly, eel and watercress will not feature on local menus; the catch has to be thrown back.

Bed down and chow down at...

If you miss the date 1767 over the door as you enter the Bell Inn (www.bellalresford.com, 01962 732429), the dips in the floor as you walk along the corridors tell you that this is a very old building. Jools Wood and his mother, Cynthia, run this atmospheric small-town hotel with a light touch, but you will enjoy the warm welcome and a delicious English breakfast. The evening menu features local produce, including, naturally, watercress. Sautéed beef medallions and seafood risotto were a highlight.

Secret spot

St John the Baptist Church is a lovely English country church. You will find a group of gravestones dating to the early 19th century and bearing unmistakably French names. These are the resting places of men - and, in some cases, their wives - who were PoWs in the Napoleonic wars. The main camp was at Portchester, near Portsmouth, but officers were allowed to live in Alresford as long as they obeyed a curfew and did not walk a mile in either direction. Those who died and were buried here are thought to be victims of fevers caught in the Caribbean.

(www.enjoyengland.com).

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