Views described as breathtaking are usually nothing of the sort. But on the
coastal path between Lyme Regis and Bridport, in Dorset - unless you are
hyperfit - you'll find that the climbs to the top viewing spots will leave
you genuinely and seriously out of breath.
The remarkable Golden Cap, at 618ft above sea level, is the highest cliff on
the UK's southern coast and, after you've scaled its amazingly steep,
verdant gradient, it rewards you with views across Chesil Beach to Portland
Bill to the east and Lyme Regis to the west.
Just as lung-busting is the climb up nearby Thorncombe Beacon, the next
highest point, from where you can look down over the beaches of Eype and
Chesil to the east and Seatown to the west.
Out on the coastal path you are surrounded by sunshine, winds, green, green
countryside, wide shimmering sea - and an ocean of peace.
But hustle, bustle and luxury living can be found nearby too. For our three
days of walking, we were based in Bridport, at the recently transformed Bull
Hotel. This Grade II listed coaching inn with roots in the 16th century is
now a boutique hotel with an appealing balance of period ambience and
understated modernity.
It's all sexy beds, stripped floors, posh wallpaper, minimalist creams and
browns, and dramatic objets trouvees. But despite the wall-to-wall
cosmopolitan sophistication, you are in the heart of a small West Country
town that is far more down to earth.
Step outside on a Saturday morning and you'll be caught up in the excitement
of the weekly street market selling everything from near-rubbish to
near-treasure: ancient toys, eccentric books, clothes, cut-price tools,
DVDs, vinyl LPs and all manner of bric a brac. Ón the second Saturday of the
month you'll also find a farmers' market at the Arts Centre.
On a Saturday night, you may encounter more jollity than you need - courtesy
of extended licensing laws, a late-night kebab shop and local drinkers who
obviously haven't enjoyed themselves unless they've kept the less
alcoholically oriented populace awake till the early hours.
It's quieter on a Sunday evening, when you may stroll into the Beach and
Barnicott pub and be lucky enough to hear acoustic guitars, harmonicas and
aged men playing the blues.
The Bull Hotel is also a great place for a drink - it has a tremendous wine
list - and an even better place to eat. It offers excellent cuisine, from
fresh crab and seafood to organic salmon, Glastonbury beef and great salads
and pasta dishes.
If you're a resident, the dark wood panelling, vintage mirrors and chinoiserie
furniture of the Venner Bar tempt you to snuggle here late into the night,
perhaps over brandies and Scrabble.
All this before retiring to a six-foot brass bed surrounded by French and
Chinese furniture, gold wallpaper and vintage bath. Mirrors, remarkable
furniture, over-the-top baths and dramatic wallpaper are the keynotes of the
bedrooms here, all individually styled.
But more natural beauties summon you to get out and get walking. The hotel
itself encourages you to explore the local countryside on foot. And if you
fancy a straight walk that ends at the hotel, they're willing to give you a
lift to where you want to start from.
We had a lift to Lyme Regis to begin our walk back along the coastal path
(sadly, currently diverted a little way inland for the initial section,
between Lyme and Charmouth). It took us about six hours (with stops for tea
and sightseeing) but it gave us a heck of an appetite that evening.
Lyme has loads of stepping-back-in-time, old-fishing-port atmosphere but
Charmouth also has its charms. It's at the heart of what's known as the
Jurassic Coast - because of the huge numbers of prehistoric fossils found
here.
But if you don't want to hunt for fossils on the beaches, you can see them at
the Charmouth Heritage Coast Centre and you can buy them at the Charmouth
Fossil Shop, which has gigantic ammonites for sale and enormous icthyosaur
fossils on show.
The best walk we found was a circular one beginning and ending at Chesil
Beach. In six miles and three hours we walked by pebbled shore, mirror-still
sea and ruined castle, over green hills, across the remains of a vast
ancient hill fort, along the heights of the Dorset Ridgeway and through the
beautiful little village of Abbotsbury.
Abbotsbury has two unmissable attractions: the Subtropical Gardens, with
blissful meanders through extravagant foliage, and the Swannery, where you
can see masses of swans in flight. You could almost say that both provide
sights that are breathtaking.
NEED TO KNOW
Nigel Summerley stayed at the Bull Hotel, 34 East Street, Bridport where
double rooms cost £75 to £180 off-peak weekends; £105 to £210 at peak
weekends. Meal for two about £50, not including wine.
For walking suggestions, read Jurassic Coastal Walks by Nigel J
Clarke (Nigel J Clarke Publications, £5.99)
More attractions
Charmouth Heritage Coast Centre, Lower Sea Lane, Charmouth - admission free,
donations welcome. Charmouth Fossil Shop, Lower Sea Lane, Charmouth.
Abbotsbury Subtropical Gardens, Bullers Way, Abbotsbury - £7.50 adults,
£4.50 children. Abbotbsury Swannery, New Barn Road, Abbotsbury - £7.50
adults, £4.50 children.
