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MOORLAND ROMANCE
Dartmoor Inn, Lydford, Devon
There are pretty rooms, great meals and even retail therapy at this
pub-with-attitude, so close to the moor that you can step out on a frosty
morning to fit in a walk before breakfast by the fire. You’ll need to work
up an appetite for it — the inn serves one of the best breakfasts in the
country: girl-food includes little pots of fruit salad, chocolate mousse and
rice pudding, man-food comes in the form of escalope of beef fillet with a
fried egg, and Devon splits.
The shop is a real surprise, at the back of the pub, and glitters with vintage
Swarovski rhinestones, beaded chokers, Swedish glassware and antique finds.
Three double rooms upstairs, added a year ago, fuse European antiques and
sumptuous fabrics.
B&B from £80 (when you stay two nights) or from £95 for one night. Ask
about set lunch and dinner menu deals
Details: 01822 820221, www.dartmoorinn.com
MODERN COACHING
The Bull Hotel, Bridport, Dorset
Manuel Canovas meets Thomas Hardy at a fresh take on a trad coaching
inn, which opened in summer after a refurbishment under new owners. This
elegant and historic market town is in glorious country, with plenty of
walking and villages such as Evershot (Evershead in Tess of the
d’Urbervilles) within easy reach, as are the beaches around Lyme Regis.
Rooms are dressed up in Canovas wallpapers and Farrow & Ball colours to
deliver a “wow” factor in each — nine on the first floor, with more being
renovated on the top floor. The restaurant has an open fire and is a
neighbourhood hit, with its local produce and well-chosen wines, and there’s
even a ballroom for special occasions.
B&B from £65 a night.
Details: 01308 422878, www.thebullhotel.co.uk
RELAXED LUXURY
Lamper Head, Totnes, Devon
Self-catering took on a New Age mantle when Lamper Head opened this year. Not
that there’s anything remotely basic here — this stunning green oak-framed
house sleeps 11 and was designed and constructed by the architect Roderick
James with Carpenter Oak Ltd — both featured on Channel 4’s Grand
Designs.
At this lofty coastal retreat you’ll find an art collection, Italian furniture
and state-of- the-art sound system, but guests in need of post-Christmas
stress relief can also choose from a menu of extras, such as massages, yoga
or meditation sessions. You can take the “self” out of catering too; there’s
a chef for hire who will cook in a variety of styles from Thai to Modern
British. Take a group of friends (maximum eight adults) or there’s a
children’s bunk room complete with attic playroom if you’re travelling en
famille.
Three-day breaks from £1,495 — spa treatments and other services extra.
Details: 01803 722220, www.lamperhead.com
SPLENDID ISOLATION
Pencalenick House,
Fowey, Cornwall
Short days will seem longer when you have uninterrupted sea views from
Pencalenick’s double-height windows, whether you’re watching a storm rolling
in or sharp, wintry sun lighting a pale-blue sky. This is the sort of house
you normally see in coffee-table books, but it can be yours — for a short
break or longer.
The architect Seth Stein designed Pencalenick House in timber, glass and local
stone, with a seeded grass roof, and built it in the contours of a forested
hillside at Pont Pill creek, opposite the pretty Cornish harbour town of
Fowey. Since opening in May it has raised the game in the Cornish
house-rental stakes. Privacy and peace come as standard, but so too does a
full-time staff and (weather permitting) the use of a 40ft motor yacht.
Sleeps 16, from £2,000 a day, fully inclusive.
Details: 0207-747 6858, pencalenickhouse.com
TOAST OF THE COAST
Andrews on the Weir, Porlock Weir, Somerset
This restaurant with rooms is tucked into a hillside where Exmoor rolls down
to the sea — a more perfect spot is hard to imagine. It is less than four
hours from London, yet this area is often bypassed for Devon and Cornwall.
Andrews on the Weir is a handsome Victorian house with five guest rooms and
looks out over a weir and tiny harbour. Expect a cold wind blustering off
the sea as you settle in to one of two dining rooms, in which chef Andrew
Dixon proudly showcases local produce (and names his suppliers on the menu).
Right now that means the last of the wild game and plenty of skate from the
nets off Dunster Beach.
Exmoor walks await the hardy, or take the rewarding route from the front door
along a wooded path to tiny Culbourne Church between breakfast and lunch.
B&B from £100 to £180 a night. Closed Jan, reopens Feb 2.
Details: 01643 863300, www.andrewsontheweir.co.uk
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