When I signed up to go gorge scrambling in Devon I didn't know what to expect
- I was told it's an activity popular with restless Devon surfers and
kitesurfers who fancy trying something new, but trussed in full length
wetsuit, trainers, helmet and a lifejacket on a balmy June day in a car park
just north of Plymouth, I couldn't see anyone else who looked like they were
going to the same fancy dress party.
The car park was about 20 minutes north of Plymouth just inside the southwest
corner of the Dartmoor National Park. Despite its concealed location in
dense woodland down single-track roads hemmed in by high hedges, there was a
surprising amount of activity for 10am on a Sunday. A van-load of TA
recruits were just departing, there were families and dog-walkers spilling
from cars, an ice cream van setting up shop and us, in our silly outfits.
Initial scepticism soon vanished when we got out of sight of the
bemused-looking families and got stuck into our scramble up the River Plym,
which makes the short, but scenic journey from the highlands of Dartmoor,
through eastern Plymouth and empties into Plymouth Sound.
Our mission was to scramble - and that's a good description - up the river for
a couple of hours, then get washed back down. The "gorge" bit of
the description is a little misleading because in my mind a gorge is a
dramatic, deep crevasse and I'd envisioned terrifying tiptoeing along
perilous ledges and 20-foot cliff jumps. As it turned out, the Plym was
challenge enough.
Our party of two, my twin brother and I, was guided by Aggy, your archetypal
West Country surfer with shoulder-length sun bleached locks, and freckles
that would melt a schoolgirl's heart, and probably her mother's too. He'd
spent the previous day taking a stag party up this same stretch of river,
but it didn't dampen his enthusiasm and it appeared that he viewed his
weekend job working as a guide for the outdoor activities company, Breathing
Space, as a hobby as much as a wage earner.
The Plym was chilly despite the wetsuit and as Aggy leapt in he let out a
yelp, then took off, scrambling up the river's rocky channel like a mountain
goat, while I flailed about like Bambi on his legs for the first time, arms
outstretched and fingers splayed to grab onto any rock or branch for
support. Aggy made it look easy, but the uneven rocky ground, sudden dip of
pools, gushy waterfalls and rocks covered in a slimy moss made for
challenging conditions. My brother seemed to be coping well. "Maybe
it's a girl thing," he gestured as I splashed into the water for the
fifth time in as many minutes. I blamed my trainers.
After 20 minutes we had a short break and sat on one of the rounded limestone
boulders at the edge of the channel that are washed down during storms, when
the river upgrades from an ambling brook to a torrent. Now the water level
was lower exposing the rocky debris in a series of pools and waterfalls. "The
channel is constantly changing so there'll be a waterfall one week that's a
dry boulder the next. That's what makes it so fun and keeps me coming back,"
Aggy told us.
It was the first chance I'd had to take in the surroundings - the smooth grey
rocks, dark mossy banks, soft brown leafy forest floor, bright violet
foxgloves, and shards of sunlight coming through the tree branches - it was
textbook English woodland. But there was little time to rest before Aggy was
off again on his Boy's Own adventure.
Then, after another hour or so we came across the ultimate boys' toy. Better
than a catapult, peashooter or airgun - a rope swing. And there was no way
Aggy was going to stand in line. He hopped up the bank at the side of the
large pool we'd climbed up to, and without testing the rope, he ran and out,
grabbed it and swung out over the river, dropping with a howl into the
middle of the pool. We all had a couple of goes and then it was time for the
descent.
Usually you'd be able to float back down the river, gliding gently across the
pools, then gushing down the waterfalls, but a dry spell meant that between
the odd whoosh down a waterfall and some relaxing floating we scrambled down
much of the river on the descent, bar a short spell along a bank to watch
some rock climbers tackling a 40-foot cliff.
It was an exhilarating morning and I can see why it appeals to the surfing
crowd - the rich green woodland and crystal clear fresh water being a
refreshing antithesis to a daily intake of pale sandy beaches and salty
water.
By the time we reached the car park my legs had turned to jelly and I felt I'd
used every muscle in my body, as well as acquiring a few bruises. Aggy was
still bounding along like a puppy and suggested we continue past the car
park to some rapids lower down, but I was done-in and feebly declined,
opting instead for an ice cream cornet in the car park. I barely had the
energy to peel off my sodden wetsuit, but it was a satisfying tiredness -
the sort that longs for a well-earned hot bath, which is where I was headed,
and as for Aggy, he'd just warmed up and was off to the beach for a surf.
Need to know
Breathing Space is an outdoor adventures company that offers activities
ranging from surfing and fly-fishing to cookery and spa pampering in ten UK
locations, but can also organise activities abroad. It caters for corporate,
and leisure groups and individuals and can tailor-make activities for a few
hours or a few days.
Three hours of gorge scrambling in the River Plym costs £40 per person, and
includes hire of a wetsuit, helmet and lifejacket, but you must bring a
change of clothes, towel and trainers that you don't mind getting wet and
muddy.
For more information go to www.breathingspace.uk.com,
info@breathingspace.uk.com, tel. 01271 890037
For more information about activities and accommodation in Devon, go to the
Discover Devon website (www.discoverdevon.com) or call the Holiday Line on
0870 6085531.
Where to stay: West Charleton Grange is a recently
refurbished group of six cottages that has received a five-star rating from
the English Tourist Council. The attractive stone cottages sleep two to six
people and occupy a quiet valley surrounding the owners' elegant house close
to Kingsbridge. Guests can relax in the gardens, which have a walled garden,
barbeque, play area, soft tennis court and table tennis table, or opt for
the indoor pool.
There's also great walking nearby, plus beaches and shopping, including the
excellent Ken Durrant butchers in Kingsbridge and Chillington, which is
renowned for its top class sausages - ideal for the barbeque. There's also
the Hair Advice Centre in Kingsbridge, which offers a range of face and body
spa treatments as well as hair dressing at a fraction of the price you'll
pay in British cities.
The cottages all have CD and DVD players and there are comprehensive folders
in each which provides information on restaurants and activities in the
surrounding area as well as taxi firm numbers and video store membership.
Cottages cost from £495 per week (offpeak for a cottage that sleeps two
people plus a cot) and includes linen and towels.
Contact: Hazel and John Bustin, West Charleton Grange, West
Charleton, Kingsbridge, Devon, TQ7 2AD, tel. 01548 531779,
www.westcharletongrange.com; info@westcharletongrange.com.
