Blame global warming, blame Father Christmas, blame whoever you want, but
there’s no escaping the fact that you’ve a snowball’s chance of snow in
Britain this winter. In London, the chances are one in 10 that there will be
a dusting.
So escape the rain and the sludge, and go looking for a proper white winter,
in all its brilliant and fragile beauty. It’s not difficult to find. Track
north and/or east of our own pampered island and you’ll find a whole arc of
cities, from Iceland to Austria, where snow is a fact of life — and there’s
a lot more to do in winter than the Christmas shopping.
PRAGUE
It’s all about the whiff of history and the romance of narrow, cobbled
streets. More than any other European capital, Prague preserves its medieval
street pattern, and the effect is both exotic and intoxicating: you’ve a
50-50 chance of snow, but the weather will be suitably subzero even if you
only get a light dusting. It doesn’t really matter where you go — up to the
cathedral to eavesdrop on an early-morning Mass; to Smetana Hall, to catch a
classical concert; or for a snowball fight on Petrin hill — in the Czech
midwinter, every street seems like the setting for an art-house movie.
Then, when you’re done with nostalgia, go and watch some ice hockey. The
Czechs take it far more seriously than football, and they’ve got a splendid,
18,000-seat national stadium to prove it — Sazka, home to HC Slavia Prague
(www.sazkaticket.cz). Tickets start at £8.
Where to stay: the Aria Hotel (00 420 225 334111,
www.ariahotel.net; doubles from £144, B&B), blessed with a great
location in Mala Strana, has a fine indoor winter garden and its very own
in-house music concierge.
Getting there: fly with Aer Lingus (0818 365000, www.aerlingus.ie), BMI Baby
(www.bmibaby.com), British Airways (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com), EasyJet
(www.easyjet.com) or Jet2 (www.jet2.com).
SALZBURG
Salzburg’s Altstadt is one of the masterpieces of baroque town planning, and
it’s never prettier than when it’s frosted with freshly fallen snow. Winter
tends to choke off the crowds a little, too, so if you’ve never paid your
respects to Mozart, the city’s most famous son, it’s a great time to go —
especially if your trip coincides with the festival of his music that runs
from January 26 to February 4, 2007 (visit www.salzburg.info for details).
Don’t let Wolfgang take up all your time, though. Remember: the hills are
alive with the sound of music, too. At the very least, ride the cable car to
the summit of the 6,469ft Untersberg — the first of the high Alps in the
Salzburgerland, which dominates the town. Or jump on one of the shuttle
buses that whisks skiers daily (in about an hour) to many of the most famous
Austrian resorts, including Kitzbühel, Saalbach and Schladming, for a flat
rate of £8.50 return. Snow completely guaranteed.
Where to stay: at the refreshingly modernist Blaue Gans Hotel
(00 43 662 842491, www.blauegans.at; doubles from £100, B&B).
Getting there: fly with BA (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com), Flybe
(www.flybe.com), Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) or Thomsonfly
(www.thomsonfly.com).
CRACOW
No, a 41% chance of snow isn’t exactly a sure bet, but in Cracow, snow
insurance comes as standard — courtesy of Zakopane, Poland’s most famous ski
resort, and a pretty mountain town in its own right. It sits in the shadow
of the High Tatras, which top 8,500ft, and can be reached by regular bus
services from Cracow — or a slower, scenic railway.
All the same, you’ll find it hard to leave the city. The Poles regard Cracow
as their cultural capital, and its tight historic core is a treat for
city-breakers. It’s not just the medieval perspectives and sense of scale:
the city is home to one of Leonardo da Vinci’s finest portraits (The Lady
with the Ermine), at the Czartoryski Museum; a magnificent 15th-century
altarpiece in the basilica of St Mary; and a burgeoning contemporary-art
scene (check out the latest shows at the Bunkier Sztuki). Snow or no snow,
the grounds of Wawel Castle, erstwhile home of Polish kings, and the streets
of Kazimierz — the old Jewish town — will provide the perfect backdrop for
atmospheric winter walks.
Where to stay: at the Hotel Grodek (00 48 12 431 9030,
www.donimirski.com; doubles from £120, B&B), a cute little crash
pad tucked away in a cul-de-sac in the old town.
Getting there: fly with Aerlingus (0818 365000,
www.aerlingus.ie), BA (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com); EasyJet
(www.easyjet.com), Jet2 (www.jet2.com), Ryanair (www.ryanair.com), Sky
Europe (www.skyeurope.com) or Wizz Air (www.wizzair.com).
STOCKHOLM
Not surprisingly for a city built on 14 islands, Stockholm has a strong
tradition of skating. It’s not uncommon for the waters around the centre to
freeze hard from January, and in really cold winters they skate all the way
to the Stockholm archipelago, on the edge of the Baltic. The local skates
have extra-long blades to make the job a little easier.
Fortunately, you don’t need to be a skater yourself to follow them. Just take
a walk on one of the inlets or hop on board a short ice-breaking cruise
around the city (www.stockholmsightseeing.com; £12.50pp). The historic core
of the city is handsome and well proportioned — dotted with grand palaces
and spiked by church spires. Viewed from a sea of ice, it’s a sight you
won’t easily forget.
Where to stay: the Lady Hamilton (00 46 8 506 401 00,
www.ladyhamiltonhotel.se; doubles from £125, room-only), a cosy hotel with
an 18th-century theme in the heart of Gamla Stan (the old town).
Getting there: fly with BA (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com),
Ryanair (www.ryanair.com), SAS (0870 6072 7727, www.scandinavian.net) or
Sterling (0870 787 8038, www.sterling.dk).
TALLINN
Kite-boarding on ice, anyone? No? Well, just in case the fancy takes you this
winter, book a flight to Estonia. The frozen lakes to the east of the
capital, Tallinn, are perfect for one of the latest extreme-sport crazes
(visit www.kite.ee for details).
If you’re looking for a more cosy and contemplative experience, the city’s a
safe bet — with one of Europe’s snowiest climates and a miraculously
preserved medieval centre, tailor-made for wandering. Nearby, the parkland
of Kadriorg is perfect for winter walks, with KuMu — the city’s brand-new,
ultra-cool museum of Estonian art — your ultimate goal. And if you get a
little chilly, all the better, because this is one of the world’s great
sauna cities. Most hotels have them, and the larger ones will let
non-residents hire them out — the Olumpia (www.revalhotels.com), for
example, has several on its 26th floor, offering sensational views of the
city.
Where to stay: at the Imperial (00 372 627 4800,
www.imperial.ee; doubles from £103, B&B), a pretty boutique hotel
set against the city wall.
Getting there: fly with EasyJet (www.easyjet.com) or Estonian
Air (00 372 640 1163, www.estonian-air.ee).
ST PETERSBURG
It’s like an open museum of architecture. Walk along the banks of the Neva,
past immaculately restored 18th-century palaces and churches, and you’ll
feel like a character from your favourite Russian novel. Especially if a
blizzard blows in and muffles the whole city in white.
The locals, of course, take winter in their stride, and just for a weekend,
you should too. So layer up with everything in your suitcase and go and see
if anyone is sunbathing against the walls of the Peter and Paul fortress.
Then stroll, arm in arm, up and down Nevsky Prospekt — which these days
doubles as both shopping street and catwalk — eating ice cream. Yes, ice
cream. The secret to this show of insouciance lies in St Petersburg’s more
old-fashioned cafes: order a coffee and you get a shot of vodka, too,
designed to open up the blood vessels and deliver warmth to every extremity.
Where to stay: the Astoria (00 7 812 494 5757,
www.astoria.spb.ru; doubles from £167, room-only) serves the best tea in
town and is a short walk from the Hermitage, which in the pantheon of great
art museums comes second only to the Louvre. Summer or winter, this is the
real reason for coming here.
Getting there: fly with BA (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com).
MOSCOW
They don’t get more wintry than this. Although Moscow’s average temperature
isn’t that intimidating, a cold snap here really has bite: -20C is not
unusual. Which is why you should come. If you’ve never felt the full force
of winter before, it’s a thrilling, chilling experience — and refuge is
never more than a couple of steps away. It’s also a great excuse to head for
the banya, Russia’s steamier, slightly cooler version of the Finnish sauna —
which isn’t complete unless you’ve been beaten with dried birch twigs, to
stimulate your circulation. There are several private clubs in the city, but
none compares with the splendid public baths at Sandunovsky — known as
Sanduny — at 14 Neglinnaya Street.
When you’re done, one of the world’s great boom towns awaits you. There are
some classic sights to take in — the Kremlin, St Basil’s — but make time for
a tour of the glittering new bars and shopping malls, too — such as the
Vogue café, near the Bolshoi Ballet, and the Petrovsky Passage, on Petrovka
Street.
Where to stay: at the sleek and extremely convenient National
(00 7 495 258 7000; www.national.ru; doubles from £223, B&B),
opposite the Kremlin.
Getting there: fly with Aeroflot (020 7355 2233,
www.aeroflot.co.uk), BA (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com) or BMI (0870 607 0555,
www.flybmi.com).
REYKJAVIK
Yes, the days are short (you’ll get no more than two hours of sunshine in late
December), but you do get the northern lights. The best chance of seeing
them is out of town — Iceland Travel (00 354 585 4300; www.icelandtravel.is)
is one of several companies that offer night excursions to catch them. This
won’t be the only time you leave the city. Reykjavik may be home to several
excellent museums and art galleries, as well as enough nightlife for the
locals to stave off the winter blues, but with so many natural wonders on
its doorstep — most notably the epic glaciers — a day trip or two is
essential.
Where to stay: at the supercool 101 Hotel (00 354 5800 101,
www.101hotel.is; doubles from £230, room-only).
Getting there: fly with BA (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com),
Icelandair (0870 787 4020, www.icelandair.com) or Iceland Express (0870 240
5600, www.icelandexpress.com).
