Rejuvenation by arty types moving into loft spaces along the Canal Saint-Martin sees Eurostar’s backyard now mixing some of the city’s best chef-bistros with the hottest cafés in town.

Yes, it’s seedy in parts. But with its muddle of cultures, cobbled courtyards and ethnic markets, the 10th is not without colour. As such, it’s the ideal place for a last taste of authentic French cooking before heading home.

Chez Arthur

In the heart of theatreland, Chez Arthur is adored by luvvies. Jane Birkin regularly calls in pre-show, demanding “saumon, et beaucoup d’eau”. Lunchtime is local textile workers; don’t expect to star-spot before 10.30pm, when this laid-back bistro with subdued theatre lamps and black and white actors’ photos packs out. The staff are supremely charming and the food reliably Gallic. Forget portion control: tender “six hour” shoulder of lamb mixes with robust cassoulet of crête de coq (cock’s comb). Great for Atkins’ dieters.
Details: 25 Rue du Faubourg St-Martin (00 33 1 42 08 34 33). Closed Sun & Mon. Prix fix £15.

Le Reveil du 10eme

Cosy neighbourhood bistro à vins, Le Reveil is ideal for lunch, but without reservations, you’ll have to queue. Hearty Auvergne specialities — stuffed cabbage, pounti and pavé de boeuf, with rough regional wines. Cramped and friendly, locals include a couple who have lunched here daily for 50 years.
Details: 25 Rue du Chateau d’Eau (42 41 77 59). Closed Sun. Average £13.

Jemmapes

This tiny trendy Canal Saint-Martin favourite is great for cocktails and a quick bite. A smoky boho café with plenty of designer scruff, its nicotine-stained walls sport bad art for sale. A hip crowd drink blinding Mojitos or Belgian draught beers, and the crowd spills out on to the quayside in summer months. Perennial standbys include duck confit and goat cheese salads.
Details: 82 Quai de Jemmapes (40 40 02 35). Average £10.

Côte Canal

Cosy, authentic and crowded, this stuccoed, wood-panelled corner bistro offers briskly served formule lunches for £8. Admire the antique, zinc-clad spiral staircase before eating homely, no-nonsense cooking including warm onion tart, rôti de veau with mash, guinea-fowl and stuffing. You can go à la carte, but few locals do. Good wines by the glass.
Details: 56 Rue de Lancry (42 08 38 81). Closed Sun & Mon.

Balbuzard Café

This Corsican café is tremendous fun. Friday and Saturday evenings there’s live music alongside your mountain sausages, lentils and charcuterie. A shabby one-room joint, its bohemian duffle-coated clientele range in age from late twenties to fiftysomethings. There are main courses such as coq au vin (£7), but you should try Planche Balbuzard — a tapas of tripe, charcuterie, and cheeses enough for two (£8). Whistling genie and singer Mario, a Roger Whittaker soundalike, will happily share his philosophy of life with willing ears.
Details: 54 Rue Rene-Boulanger (42 08 60 20). Closed Sun. Average £16.

Chez Michel

Parisians crave home cooking but can’t be bothered to cook it themselves. So eating out means opting for atmospheric bistros such as Thierry Breton’s Chez Michel. Table space is tight, but encourages conviviality, as diners peer with envy or approval at neighbour’s plates, or swap recommendations. There’s a set £20 menu, or Brittany specials from the blackboard. Coarse bread and winkles fill a hole before rib-sticking comfort food: jugs of thick pungent fish soup, kilner jars stuffed with warm truffle, poached egg, and wild mushrooms — Breton coquilles, or mallard. Leave room for unctuous creamy rice pud served with caramelised pineapple. Reservations essential.
Details: 10 Rue de Belzunce (44 53 06 20). Closed weekends.

Recommended reading: Zagat 2003/04 Paris restaurants (Zagat Survey £9.99). Time Out Paris Eating & Drinking (Penguin £11.99).

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