PARIS FOR ROMANCE

IT'S A cliché that Paris is the most romantic city on earth. And clichés are, by definition, true. From the backstreets of the Marais to the crest of Sacré-Coeur, this is a place that can make the heart soar. Yet, like romance itself, romantic Paris is subjective. There are thousands of ways to go: if in doubt, select a pavement cafe, order a vin rouge and revel in just being there. The rest will come naturally.

Let's fall in love: there's something about Paris that makes you want to do things properly, so let's be traditional about this. On the first morning, men, pack your companion off for some pampering. You've got shopping to do. You need flowers. Jardin de la Madeleine (00 331 4265 0601), on Place de la Madeleine, has one of the best selections: 10 small but perfectly formed red roses (no dozens — even romance is metric in France) cost £6.60.

Next, chocolates. Proper chocolates. Debauve & Gallais (4548 5467), in St Germain, is the oldest and the best — the original M Debauve was chocolatier to Charles X. They make extraordinary creations (try the earl grey ganache) with superlative ingredients (cocoa beans are sourced from, among others, Madagascar, Venezuela, Ghana and Sumatra). Not cheap, mind: a 300g bar costs £17.

Just around the corner, tiny, chic Sabbia Rosa (4548 8837) specialises in exquisite handmade lingerie: stylish, lace-trimmed silk slips (from £182), a cream silk bustier, good enough for evening wear (£156) or just pretty briefs (from £33). Now collect your amour and whisk her to La Rose de France (4354 1012), a tiny restaurant in the enchanting, secluded Place Dauphine.

Sit outside if it's warm and eat something light — the gazpacho, with oodles of basil, is superb at £6. In the afternoon, a stroll: the bridges of the Seine are lovely, of course, though the roads around can resemble the M25; the Jardin du Luxembourg and Parc Monceau both have their fans. But for something different, head northeast to the Parc des Buttes Chaumont. It's a fairy-tale discovery tucked away in the 19th, all dramatic cliffs and hidden walkways: climb to the hilltop folly as sunset draws near for the most romantic Paris view of all. Or maybe the second most romantic.

You might think dinner cruises are naff, but not the Don Juan II (4454 1470): converted from a 1930s hull, the ship is all teak, brass, hushed elegance and acres of space. A window table overlooking the city at her most beguiling, and the seven-course menu dégustation, costs £110pp without drinks. Worth every penny. Assuming the next day is Sunday, get out of town to a guinguette.

From the Gare de Lyon, take the 20-minute RER to Champigny and stroll the pretty riverside path for five minutes to the Guinguette de l'Ile du Martin-Pecheur (4983 0302; menus £16.50). You'll hear it before you see it, and the sound of live accordion music and old chansons might raise fears of entering a tourist trap. Relax. This is the real thing: a largely open-air restaurant-cum-dance hall crammed with Parisians rediscovering their roots — you'll likely be the only foreigners there. Extended families abound; toddlers tussle around the swings; old couples dance cheek to cheek. If you're lucky, this is where all your amours will lead you to — children and a happy old age. It's romantic in the broadest and deepest sense. Go.

Where to stay: the Pavillon de la Reine is a 17th-century town house set back from the magical Place des Vosges: ancient beams, oils on the walls and a fireplace in the lobby. It's expensive (doubles start at £222), and the rooms aren't big, but you're buying charm, not space. Ask for a traditional room — the modern ones lack character. For a four-poster, go for 47.

Less grand, but maybe more endearing, is the Hotel de Lutece. In an ancient rickety building on the Ile St-Louis, this has all the essentials — character, charm, beams aplenty — at half the price (doubles £105). Very friendly, too. Take the creaky lift to room 662 for your personal Parisian garret, complete with rooftop views.

Where to eat: if you can fit anything in after La Rose de France and that dinner cruise, then Coconas (4278 5816), on Place des Vosges, drips history and restrained good service, and does an excellent coq au vin (£12). Go in the evening, when the crowds have departed and you have the visual feast to yourselves.

Top tip: the Métro might be a model of efficiency, but it smells funny and is a passion-killer extraordinaire. Get cabs.

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