Why should I go? Two reasons. First, La Rochelle itself: one of the best-preserved port towns in France, with a clutch of handsome 18th-century streets crowding around the impressive fortified harbour of the Vieux Port, and a mouthwatering array of restaurants and cafes.

Second is the Ile de Ré, a sunny, sandy scrap of land just a couple of miles offshore, where hopping on a bike and flopping on a beach are both equally tempting. Factor in the short flight (which, amazingly for a low-cost, actually lands right next to the town) and you’ve got the perfect seaside long weekend.

Where do I stay? In prime position next to the Vieux Port, tucked behind one of the hefty twin stone towers that guard its entrance, is the three-star Hôtel St Jean d’Acre (4 Place de la Chaîne; 00 33-5 46 41 73 33, www.hotel-la-rochelle.com ; doubles from £108). Several of its 60 rooms overlook the harbour – go for room 401 and you get a terrace with a grandstand view of the many bobbing boats.

A cheaper option is the Hôtel de Bordeaux (05 46 41 31 22, www.hotel-bordeaux-fr.com ; doubles from £47), across the harbour on the pedestrianised Rue St Nicolas, home to a busy flea market on Saturdays. If you’re coming in high season, it is wise to book your accommodation ahead, especially if you want to stay in the old town itself.

What do I do? With two full days, devote the first to La Rochelle. The town centre is largely pedestrianised, and wonderfully walkable: from the harbour, head through the thickset gateway of the Porte de la Grosse Horloge and onto the main drag, the Rue du Palais. If you’re in the mood for spending, this is the place to do it; if not, just admire the smart arcaded shopfronts and ponder why British high streets never look this good. At the top end of the street, on Place de Verdun, pause for a coffee (or something a little more restorative) at the ornate, mirror-clad Café de la Paix.

Round the corner, Rue Gargoulleau leads to the Musée des Beaux-Arts (£2.40) and the bustling market, which sprawls from the Place du Marché into the surrounding streets – a good spot to pick up a bottle of Pineau des Charentes, the potent local aperitif. The swish aquarium (9am-8pm, £8.50), to the south of the old town, near the Port des Minimes marina, is well worth a visit if it rains: one of the best in Europe, the highlight is the 1.5m-litre shark tank. If the sun is shining, hit the beach – Plage de la Concurrence is closest to the Vieux Port, but Plage des Minimes is smarter.

Day two, and time to get out of town and explore the Ile de Ré. Take the Rébus bus from Place de Verdun to St Martin-de-Ré (£3.50; about every 90 mins; call 05 46 09 20 15 for times). It’s the “capital” of the island, not that you’d know it to look at the sleepy harbour and shuttered whitewashed houses.

Pick up a picnic lunch and then hire bikes from Cycland (Impasse de Sully; 05 46 09 08 66; half-day £6.50). The island is as flat as the proverbial crêpe and covered with a network of cycle paths – wend your way southwards past vineyards and pine forests and you’ll emerge at the dune-backed beach of Gros-Jonc. Back in St Martin, make sure you leave time to choose from the dozens of ice-cream flavours at La Martinière, on the quayside, before catching the bus back to La Rochelle.

Where do I eat? Good question – the Vieux Port is crammed with enticing restaurants, and seafood naturally figures high on the menu. A few doors down from the Hôtel St Jean d’Acre, L’Aunis (14 Rue St Jean du Pérot; 05 46 41 03 00; three courses from £11.50) offers delicious food, smart decor and a surprisingly small bill to round it off. Also popular for fish is A Côté de Chez Fred (30-34 Rue St Nicolas; mains from £7) – the name refers to Fred the fishmonger next door. For gourmet grub, the best address in town is Richard Coutanceau (05 46 41 48 19; menu dégustation £61), overlooking the beach at Plage de la Concurrence.

How do I get there? Flybe (0871 522 6100, www.flybe.com ) flies to La Rochelle from Birmingham, Manchester and Southampton, from £38 one way. Or try Ryanair (www.ryanair.com ) or EasyJet (www.easyjet.com ). Take bus no 7 from the airport to Place de Verdun (80p).

Rob Kingston was a guest of Flybe and the Hôtel St Jean d’Acre

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