In Toulouse, bakers will make rugby ball-shaped loaves, and Montpellier has
built a new sports stadium – just for the Australian team’s training. The
Rugby World Cup is coming to France, and smaller cities such as Lens and St
Etienne will be beamed around the world alongside Bordeaux, Lyons, Nantes,
Marseilles and, of course, Paris.
France start play on September 7, and England begin their trophy defence in
Lens the next day. There will be a handful of matches in Wales and Scotland
early on. But most will be in France, with the semi-finals and final in
Saint-Denis in the northern suburbs of Paris. It’s a chance to see some
wonderful French cities buzzing with le rugby...
BORDEAUX
One of the most beautiful French cities, with large, squares, several museums,
a riverside setting and the longest pedestrian street in France.
If you see only one thing
The Place de la Bourse, a large semicircle of elegant 18th-century buildings
looking out over the River Garonne, sums up the city’s architectural style
and sophistication.
Food feast
Bordeaux’s unique treat is a cake called cannelé, first made by nuns in the
19th century. It is like a portable crême brûlée, and can be anything from a
street snack to a gourmet dessert. One of the best-known makers is
Baillardran. Details: Galerie des Grands Hommes (00 33 5 56 79 05 89, www.baillardran.com).
Cheers
Everyone knows about Bordeaux wine, but it took James Bond to appreciate the
local apéritif, Lillet. It went into 007’s favourite cocktail when it made
its first appearance in Casino Royale. Show some local knowledge by asking
for it at the Connemara, an Irish sports bar with a surprisingly
sophisticated drinks menu. Details: 18 cours d’Albret (5 56 52 82 57, www.connemara-pub.com).
Checking in
La Maison Bordeaux on rue Albert Barraud has doubles from £100 a night. It is
a stylish boutique hotel, a stroll from the city centre, owned by a designer
from a wine-making family. Details: 113 rue Albert Barraud (05 56 44
00 45, www.lamaisonbordeaux.com).
Match facts
Ireland v Namibia, Sep 9; Ireland v Georgia, Sep 15; Canada v Japan, Sep 25;
Australia v Canada, Sep 29.
More information
Bordeaux Tourism (5 56 00 66 00, www.bordeaux-tourisme.com).
ST ETIENNE
You won’t find it in many guidebooks, but this great little city of friendly
people has a modern art museum containing the best collection outside Paris.
The Art and Industry Museum is a stylish showcase for the three disparate
industries that helped to make St Etienne’s money: weapons, ribbons and
bicycles.
The Weiss chocolate makers supply chocolate to Raymond Blanc, Alain Ducasse
and the England team’s home base at Pennyhill Park in Surrey. Just outside
the city is the stunning Gorges de la Loire. Scotland will play two games in
St Etienne – and their fans are going to be happy, especially in one of the
main bars: Le Glasgow.
If you see only one thing
Go to the Museum of Mining. At one time there were 300 coal mines in and
around the town. The Couriot Mine was one of the biggest, employing 2,000
miners. The pit closed in 1973, but much has been left intact: helmets,
lamps and safety tokens. Book ahead for a guided visit to reconstructed mine
tunnels. Details: 3 boulevard F. d’Esperey (4 77 43 83 23). Open
Wed-Mon 10am-12.45pm and 2pm-7pm.
Food feast
The rustic city-centre Corne d’Aurochs restaurant serves hearty local dishes –
one speciality is pieds de cochon. The restaurant’s amiable owner pops out
of his kitchen, helps to wait on table, and makes serving a lively room full
of people seem effortless. Details: Corne d’Aurochs, 18 rue Michel
Servet (4 77 32 27 27, www.aurochs.fr.st).
Open Tues-Fri lunch and Mon-Sat dinner.
Cheers
Enjoy the local Côtes du Rhône and Beaujolais wines in Le Glasgow on the place
de l’Hôtel de Ville. It’s the archetypal French bar-brasserie on the city’s
main square, close to the big-screen action.
Checking in
Hotel Furania, 18 rue de la Resistance (4 77 32 19 82) has rooms for about £50
per double per night. In a city that is not overrun with hotels, the Furania
is a characterful little two-star, family-run place in the city centre. Its
grading belies its quality: there are oriental rugs, a colourful breakfast
room with contemporary artworks, and eye-catching travel photos on the
walls. The rooms are simple, but clean and comfortable.
Match facts
Scotland v Portugal, Sept 9; Samoa v US, Sept 26; Scotland v Italy, Sept 29.
Further information
Etienne Tourism (8 92 70 05 42, 23p a minute, www.tourisme-st-etienne.com).
NANTES
A busy, well-heeled city, Nantes is set on the Loire where it widens and heads
for the Atlantic. Breton influences, especially in its cuisine, will make it
a good choice for the Welsh team and fans. The dominant feature in the old
town quarter is the Château des Ducs de Bretagne, a 16th-century fortress.
Nantes’ Musée des Beaux Arts has a fine collection, and the former home of
Jules Verne is now a museum to the local author.
If you see only one thing
The best of Nantes is viewed on boat trips on the Loire, or north along the
Erdre past several châteaux and through the Beaujoire part of the city,
where the Stade de la Beaujoire stands.
Food feast
The city speciality is a crêpe called la galette au curé Nantais, served with
a local cheese and muscadet wine. Try them at L’Ile Mystérieuse. Details:
13 rue Kervégan, Île Feydeau (2 40 47 42 83). Open Tues-Sat, all day.
Cheers
No prizes for guessing that Webb Ellis (and Co) at 6 rue Santeuil (2 40 69 75
89, www.webbellis.eu) is a bar run by
a rugby fanatic. Ludovic Mocard displays a 15-year collection of
memorabilia. He also serves beers, wines and whiskies from every
rugby-playing country he has visited as well as the local speciality, cider.
Checking in
L’Amandine, 45 boulevard des Batignolles (2 40 50 07 07, www.brithotel.fr)
has rooms from about £135 per double per night. It is part of the Brit Hotel
chain and right by the stadium.
Match facts
Wales v Canada, Sept 9; England v Samoa, Sept 22; Wales v Fiji, Sept 29.
Further information
Nantes Tourism (8 92 46 40 44, 23p a minute, www.nantes-tourisme.com).
Need to know
Mike Gerrard travelled to France with Rail Europe (0870 8304862, www.raileurope.co.uk).
InterRail France three-day passes start at £92 for a youth (12-25 years), £138
for an adult standard class. For an eight-day pass, prices are £142 for a
youth, £219 adult standard class. Eurostar (0870 5186186, www.eurostar.com)
London-Paris fares start at £59pp return.
England play the US in Lens on September 8, South Africa in Saint-Denis on the
14th, Samoa in Nantes on the 22nd and Tonga in Paris on the 28th.
Wales play Canada in Nantes on the 9th, Australia in Cardiff on the 15th,
Japan in Cardiff on the 20th, and Fiji in Nantes on the 29th.
Scotland play Portugal in St Etienne on the 9th, Romania in Edinburgh on the
18th, New Zealand in Edinburgh on the 23rd, and Italy in St Etienne on the
29th.
See www.rugbyworldcup.com for full
fixtures. Mike Gerrard is co-author of the Rugby World Cup 2007 Official
Travel Guide (Purple Guides, £19.99, www.purpleguide.com).
