Jon Barnsley
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It used to be unthinkable that Britons would ever be able to take on the French in the kitchen, but many chefs in Normandy are now raising the white tea towel in defeat.
Back in 1066 William the Conqueror invaded England and bought culinary expertise with him, but nearly a millennium later it is the Brits who are returning the flavour.
For decades British holidaymakers have crossed the channel for a taste of real France. Often they were prepared to rough it in second rate accommodation because the quality of the food was so much better than back home. But these days a more discerning and demanding visitor is booking into expatriate placest as they offer top quality food and accommodation.
There is a huge choice - battalions of Brits have moved to the Manche in Normandy to open guest houses, chateau hotels, restaurants and catering schools. And I was among them, moving three years ago to open Le Castel, a chateau guest house near Coutances.
Here is my guide to the best British hosts in Normandy (ok, I include myself here):
Le Quesnay - farm house B&B with style
Normandy used to be known for chambre d’hotes with smelly candlewick bedspreads and frayed fabrics, but you won’t find any of that at a B&B run by former Yorkshire curtainmaker Joanne Nalson. Her farmhouse B&B offers four stylish and comfortable rooms for £40 a night.
“I like everything to match,” says Joanne, 44, who moved to Normandy with husband Geoff, 57, in April 2004. They fell in love with Le Quesnay at Contriers. More than 80 per cent of her guests are Brits. “Our guests want to dip their toe into French life, but like that fact that we speak English…or perhaps I should say Yorkshire,” laughs Joanne.
La Verte Campagne – restaurant with top English chef doing it the French way
A lot of the auberges in Normandy sell good but often uninspiring food that barely differs from one place to another, but thanks to the British invasion that is changing.
Lynne Tamba bought an 18th century coaching inn four years ago and initially had a French chef, but it was a kitchen nightmare. Now she does the cooking herself and it is superbly innovative. Lynne mainly caters for the French market at La Verte Campagne in Trelly. They were sceptical at first, but now love her dishes that have French taste but British flair.
Lynne, 51, and husband Andre, 55, used to live near Bishops Stortford, but moved to Normandy in May 2003 for “a less stressed and traffic free life.” Lynne adds: “It is great to be able to afford to run our own business. I am doing the job I love to do whist having a more flexible life style and being home when my daughter returns from school.”
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