After the Gallic fun it's back to our rural accommodation. Domaine
des Clos is a converted farmsted or mas, one of the biggest and
best in the region, a former winery with apartments and luxury rooms
surrounding a lawned courtyard, a couple of acres of gardens with olive
tress and palms and a large swimming pool, not to mention various barbecue,
games and lounge areas. David and Sandrine Ausset escaped the city with
their young family and have undertaken much of the design and redevelopment
work.
We enjoy Sandrine's homemade jams over breakfast then set off for Avignon, an
easy day trip from Beaucaire, heading first to the neighbouring town of Villeneuve
lez Avignon across the Rhone. It was built up around a 6th century abbey
from the 13th century onwards, first by the Count of Toulouse. It became
part of the French kingdom in 1272, and its imposing fortress was built
during the Hundred Years War. The abbey gardens inside the fort are finest
in early summer and afford excellent views across to Avignon and further
afield to Mt Ventoux and Chateauneuf de Pape.
On the way back down the hill, the Chartreuse
of Val de Bénédiction is a fine example of a large abbey that
was built by the Chartreuse Order of cloistered monks (the Carthusians). The
abbey housed forty monks in rooms, or 'cells', that they retreated into for
most of the day to reflect and carry out religious work. Their grulleingly
long days included tasks such as gardening and cooking to keep the abbey
running. Now the 'cells' are inhabited by artists, primarily composers, who
get bed, board and peace and quiet to help them work.
Lunch is in the tranquil gardens of Le
Prieure, a new hotel and restaurant opened by the 3-star Michelin chef
Jean-André Charial from acclaimed Provence hotel Oustau de Baumanière. It's
situated in a 14th century priory. The food is superb, from the mis de
bouche (pre-starter) - a light vegetable parcel balanced on a shot glass
containing the juices to wash it down - to some handmade chocolate creations
for desert accompanied by fresh herb mint ice cream.
Across the river Avignon itself, with its formidable Palais
des Papes as a centrepiece, is steeped in the history of bloodthirsty
religious feuding dating back to the 14th century when seven popes resided
here instead of Rome. From the top of the hill are spectacular views around
Provence, along with Villeneuve and the partially collapsed 12th century
bridge, Pont St-Bénezet. Inside the huge palace there's medieval grandeur
aplenty, from gigantic halls to beautifully painted rooms designed to wow
those waiting for a papal audience.
After a day exploring the feudal fortresses of religious power, we step
further back in time and head for Nîmes,
taking in the Pont du Gard on the
way. The remarkable three-tiered Roman aqueduct bridges the Gard river and
is an apt introduction to the vital Roman outpost of Nîmes, built around
50AD to carry water to the city. It's best in the early evening sunlight,
its golden sandstone basking in the orange light when most of the
holidaymakers have left.
From there, it's worth taking the long way round to Nîmes itself via Uzes for
spectacular views across the Gorges du Gardon. We arrive at the Hotel
Imperator for yet another gourmet meal. The hotel, despite its faded
1920s glory, is the best in town, and hosts all of the famous visitors to
the town, from rock stars to equally venerated matadors during the biannual
bullfighting festivals.
Gallic tribes settled in Nîmes hundreds of years before the Romans arrived in
the 2nd century BC. Founded on a spring on a hillside in the town, and named
after the goddess of the spring, Nemasus, the hill is topped by the Tour
Magne, a Roman watchtower. The Jardins de la Fountaine represents the source
of the town, 18th century classical gardens built at the former location of
Roman spring baths with the Temple of Diana to the side.
A ring road hems in the small old town, with small pedestrianised streets,
Romanesque cathedral and medieval buildings with ornate internal courtyards.
Next to the cathedral is the Musee
de Vieux Nîmes (Place aux Herbes, Nîmes. Tel: +33 4 66 76 73 70),
with its antiques, porcelain, textiles and clothes from the 18th and 19th
centuries - worth a visit to discover that the hems of the original blue
jeans came from the town. Levi Strauss, a Bavarian who emigrated to the US,
used the thickly woven blue cotton from Nîmes to develop denim, or “De
Nîmes”.
The town still retains the logo of a crocodile tied to a palm tree dating back
to the Romans. It symbolises Augustus’s victory over Cleopatra, and can be
found all over the town. The most recent incarnation was designed by Phillip
Stark, and the town hall has four huge stuffed crocodiles hanging from the
ceiling, the youngest of which dates back to the 18th century.
The two major Roman sights are the amphitheatre and equally well preserved
Roman temple, the Maison
Carree. Inside we watch a 3D film of the history of Nîmes in English,
through the eyes of a Roman Priest. Entertaining stuff, especially for
children, though eagles flying at you out of the screen along with swords
and jousting lances hitting you between your 3D specs keeps it exciting for
adults as well.
The amphitheatre, the Arenes
de Nîmes, is superbly preserved with nearly all stone seating
intact – despite it being used as a medieval fortress by the Knights of the
Arena. When we visit a stage is set up for an opera performance. It has just
been used for concerts by the likes of the Arctic Monkeys and twice a year
it is the location of a major bullfighting festival, or Feria,
its big glamorous after parties being held back at the Imperateur. From the
top of the amphitheatre steps there’s great views across Nîmes, only church
spires reaching above the rooftops and the Tour Magne on the hill in the
distance – back to the source of a fascinating ancient city in a wonderful
French region.
Around and about
If you are staying for more than a few days there’s lots more to see within 50
miles of Beaucaire. Arles
has Roman remains to rival Nimes. Orange
has a marvellous Roman threatre. Vaison
de la Romaine continues the Roman theme with excellent ruins and 1st
century bridge. Uzes hosts a
famous market and there’s more driving to do through the Gorges du Gardon.
A bit further afield there’s the wet and wild Camargue,
the 1900m peak of Mont Ventoux and Chateauneuf
de Pape – the Rhone’s most prestigious wine-growing village.
Montpellier, one of the cheap
flight options, is a vibrant university town of half a million with 100,000
students and plenty of monumental sights.
Getting around
Car del Mar has car hire in France from
£21 a day for a minimum 3-day hire
Getting there
Eurostar runs services to Avignon during
the summer, from £99 return, journey time 6 hours
French Motorail can
save on the driving time, carry your car and passengers from Calais to
Avignon
Ryanair flies to Nîmes and Montpellier
