Most of Avignon’s historical monuments date from the 14th century, when for 70 years the papal seat was moved there from Rome. The massive Palais des Papes is the centrepiece: a vast Gothic confection of banqueting halls, crennelated towers and soaring ceilings.

The city overflows with palaces, castles, museums and churches. The Petit Palais, now a museum with a stunning collection of medieval paintings; the Romanesque cathedral, Notre-Dame-des-Doms, and the Renaissance church of St-Pierre. The city’s other unmissable sight is the Pont St-Benezet, the bridge heralded in the folk ditty Sur le Pont d’Avignon.

A motley crew of thieves, drunks and robbers once made merry below the ancient stone bridge. The four remaining arches (and two small chapels) of the original 22-arch bridge are strangely atmospheric.

WHAT ELSE?

Avignon is flanked by the Rhône, and there are wonderful views from the city walls and the Rocher des Doms park across the neighbouring vineyards. These also provide some of the best and cheapest vins au pichet anywhere in France.

The area around rue de la Banasterie is a treasure trove of 17th and 18th-century town houses, with mullioned windows and tiny courtyards. Also highly atmospheric is the rue des Teinturiers, once home to calico printers in the 18th and 19th centuries.

The street flanks the Sorgue canal, where huge wooden waterwheels still turn, and has become something of a bohemian quarter, with inexpensive restaurants and arts and crafts shops. The Avignon Festival (July 3-27, www.festival-avignon.com) is overcrowded, but supplies a healthy dose of creative energy all the same.

WHERE TO STAY

For a top-end blowout go for La Mirande, an 18th-century former family home close to the Palais des Papes. There are sumptuous interiors, a restaurant and a secluded garden for breakfast. The hotel is a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, www.slh.com. Doubles from £242, but ask for offers.

At the other end of the price scale is the central Hôtel De Mons, www.hoteldemons.com, a 13th- century chapel converted in stylish, if eccentric style. Doubles from £46.

FOOD AND FUN

The vast rectangular Place de l’Horloge is lined with cafés, of which La Civette on the northeast corner is probably the best, with friendly staff who will happily serve you a humble baguette instead of a more costly menu formule for lunch.

Next door La Grille (25 Place de l’Horloge, 90 86 34 73) is a brasserie with three-course set menus starting at about £11. La Cour du Louvre (23 rue St Agricol, 90 27 12 66) is tucked away in a stone-sided courtyard: its bourride fish stew is a Provençale speciality: £50-£60 for two with wine.

Restaurant La Tarasque (18 rue des Teinturiers, 90 14 98 44) has tables under a plane tree outside, and inventive, modern cuisine. Good value at £40 for two with wine.

NEED TO KNOW

Eurostar from Waterloo (and Ashford) to Avignon runs every Saturday from July 10 to Sept 11, leaving London 07.09, arriving in Avignon at 14.21. The return leaves Avignon at 16.30 and arrives in London at 21.30. Standard class returns from £129; first class from £229.

For a weekend trip, return on the TGV Avignon to Lille, then change platforms to the Eurostar back to London. Book through Rail Europe (0870 5848848, www.rail-europe.co.uk). Returns from £119.

If you’re flying to Avignon, the best airline choice is Ryanair, www.ryanair.com, which operates from Stansted into nearby Nimes. Seat sale prices start at £55 return, but more typically fares are £129 and up.

Air France (www.airfrance.co.uk) flies into Avignon itself, but passengers from the UK must change planes in Paris — and that involves switching between CDG and Orly airports, which can add hours to the overall journey. Air France charges £174 from Heathrow, £221 Southampton, £201 Birmingham, £225 Newcastle and £211 from both Manchester and Edinburgh.

INFORMATION

Avignon’s Office of Tourism (41 rue de la République, www.avignon-tourisme.com, can help with accommodation. Ask for a free Avignon Passport for discounts at various tourist sites after paying full entry (£8.20) to the first.

READING

The Rough Guide to Provence and the Côte d’Azur, (Rough Guides, £11.99).

Times recommends

• The 10 best bits of travel gear
• Soho's classy, cheap new townhouse
• Germany's perfect Christmas city