In spite of its reputation as a surfing town, Biarritz is no Newquay. For two centuries it has attracted everyone from Queen Victoria to Ernest Hemingway — even Napoleon bathed here in 1808.

The brash and the beautiful long ago moved to the Riviera, leaving Biarritz a refreshingly egalitarian resort: familes with young children share the beach with groups of teenage boys clutching boogie boards. The beachfront promenade buzzes with young couples and elderly dames walking pekineses, with silver hairdos unbuffeted by the Atlantic wind.

Much of the belle époque architecture survives, giving Biarritz an elegant period feel. The Hotel du Palais — built as Napoleon’s villa — dwarfs the northern end of the beach, all wedding-cake tiers in scarlet and cream.

Yet it is the Atlantic that truly dominates Biarritz. The best view is from the Phare de Biarritz (open Sat-Sun 3-7pm), the 73m (240ft) lighthouse to the north of the beach; the 248 steps are wearying, but worth it for the fantastic sight of golden beaches and the burly Pyrenees.

Whether you’re a boogie-boarding novice or a tube-riding old hand, there are schools for every level. The École du Surf has lessons (www.surftraining.com) from approx £18 for one hour, up to full residential weeks.

Musée de la Mer (www.museedelamer.com; kids £3, adults £5) until December has an exhibition on the deepest, darkest corners of the ocean: Mysteries of the Abyss.

WHAT ELSE? The Thermes Marins Thalasso Centre (59 23 01 22, www.biarritz-thalasso.com) has been offering therapies since 1970. A weekend package (accommodation not included) costs from £51, including treatments and access to the thalasso pools all weekend.

The sculptures of Pablo Gargallo — Spanish sculptor and friend of Picasso and Modigliani — are on show until October 3 at Le Bellevue (Place Bellevue, 59 01 59 18; open 10-8pm, £4.50). It’s all sinuous bodies and silhouetted heads.

WHERE TO STAY: The Hotel Tonic (www.tonichotelbiarritz.com) is central and slick with a great restaurant, La Maison Blanche. Doubles from £85, room only.

Follow in the footsteps of Frank Sinatra and Ernest Hemingway and indulge in a night or two of chandelier-clad glamour at the Hotel du Palais (www.hotel-du-palais.com). Lounge by the seawater pool or look down on the peasants on the beach from the alfresco L’hippocampe restaurant. Doubles from £230, room only.

FOOD AND FUN: The beach is littered with tiny crêperie cabins, and ice-cream stalls — this being France — are all of a pretty good standard. For supper, head up to the area around Les Halles — the central markets. Bistrot des Halles (rue de Centre, 59 24 21 22) has good-value set menus; Bar Jean (5 rue des Halles) is suitably Basque, with bullfighting posters on the walls and reams of different tapas.

For something special, reserve a table on the terrace of La Rotonde at the Hotel du Palais (see above), indulge in oysters and local lobster — and try to forget the cost.

Then visit Casino Barrière de Biarritz (www.lucienbarriere.com) for a night at the tables; dress smartly and leave the credit card at the hotel.

NEED TO KNOW: Crystal Holidays (www.crystalholidays.co.uk) has a two-night stay at the Hotel Tonic in Biarritz from £257pp, including British Airways flights. Prices including Ryanair flights quoted on request. Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) has flights from Stansted to Biarritz from £31 return.

Information: Biarritz Tourism (www. biarritz.fr).

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